Original Haenel/Aydt Schuetaen

[sharps4590]

I purchased this Original Haenel/Aydt about a year ago and have worked up an accurate load for it even though it is in a cartridge no one has been able to identify, so far. It is the first iteration. Ever since I started shooting the rifle the firing pin strike has been very light, just barely dimpling the primer. I am surprised some of them fire. There has been a few failures to fire but they've been rare, fortunately. I am using Remington 9 1/2 LR primers because I've always heard they were soft. Goodness...all that to get to my question, sorry. Can someone tell me how to take it down so I can see if it's really dirty or if perhaps the spring needs replaced? Or, is it something a home/hobbyist gun crank shouldn't tackle? I'm pretty handy with a rifle and definitely patient....most of the time. If the spring is indeed weak are they available or is it something that will have to be made? Thanks for any assistance!!

Vic

[DreyseM65]

Vic, I am just working with these rifles but have found they can be finicky. My Haenel/ Aydt shoots flawlessly, but my Jung had a problem with light primer strikes to the point of misfires. I met a guy who is good with these and we took the action apart. We first thought a new spring needed to be made (not yet sure what the action of the Aydt is like), but determined that the firing pin might be worn. Options were to do a custom build of the whole one piece assembly, or use pistol primers. I used CCI pistol primers and the rifle fired well with slightly deeper primer strikes.

The thickness of the rim of the brass also plays into this IMO. I have had some rounds which were difficult to close the breech on, regarding the Aydt. Too thick of a rim. Misfires might be because of rims which are too thin. I have an assortment of brass and still working out the bugs. I also have some of the pricey RWS brass and wonder if that might be the ultimate solution.

[mike ford]

Vic,
Most of these rifles were made to be taken apart easily, even the non-takedown ones shouldn't be a problem for someone that shoots Sharps rifles. If you have some screwdrivers, a hacksaw, a 3 pound shop hammer, and an anvil, you should be set; you might not need some of them. All joking aside, these rifles are at least 70 years old, and that is a long time to build up gunk in the action. I recommend you first give it a detail cleaning. Old oils will "gum" up and restrict movement of the hammer/ firing pin. While cleaning it, check to see if there is a screw that restricts the movement of the spring. I have a rifle with such a spring( not an Aydt, rather a falling block) that acts to retract the hammer(by gravity). It has to be set, so the firing pin is flush with the breechblock face( this makes it an inertia firing pin w/o retracting spring). In that type system, if the firing pin is proud of the face, it is hard to open, if it is shy, then it might have a "light" strike. This doesn't mean your rifle is like that, it is just a possibility. Willi, you might check yours also.
Mike

[DreyseM65]

Thanks for the information Mike. I have yet to take apart all the types of Schützen rifle actions. The Jung has a small 'clock type' spring. We felt the spring was just fine. Did a thorough cleaning before reassembly. It did appear, from what I remember, that the firing pin did not protrude enough from the breech face.

I will take apart the Aydt soon, as well as a Martini action on a rifle which was a shooting prize in 1894, to see how the actions differ.

[sharps4590]

Dreyse, thank you for your thoughts. I am using 30-30 brass and have paid attention to the rim thickness being aware of the same or similar issue with other German and British firearms and, thanks to Mike, fuhrman and others timely advice. I believe the rims are all ok as they all chamber fine. None require any undue force, that is the action closes nicely and no feeler gauge can be inserted between the rim and the breech face. I thought about pistol primers but aren't they even shorter? Cetainly worth a shot and I'll have to try them next load batch.

Mike, my first thought was, and still is, some 90 or more years of gunk built up but I don't know until I can get it apart. I should be good to go as I have all the tools you mentioned except my hammer is 4 lbs. If necessary I also have an oxy/acetylene torch set. Hope that's enough....and if not there's a 10 pound hammer in the shop....hehe. As both of you mentioned it could be a firing pin problem. I hadn't considered that. If it's as easy to take down as a Sharps or Ballard it should be a slam dunk. I'm still a little leery of just diving in and pulling it down. There is always that fear of a spring and screw going "ping" across the shop and into a black hole in the universe.

[mike ford]

Will, with regard to your Martini type action, if it is striking the primers off center, the rims may be too thick for the rim recess; or if reduced in diameter, the front edge of the smaller diameter rim may need a radius to match a radius in the rim recess.
Vic,
Pistol primers( .210") are shorter, but are also softer( certainly if rim is thinned from the rear, they may be indicated). I know people talk about worn out firing pins, but I have never seen one. If every other possible cause is eliminated, the most likely cause is the main spring taking a "set", by being left cocked for 70 years. It would be easier to have the old spring annealed, spread out a little, and then rehardened/drawn, than making a new one. If you are removing a spring, you are afraid of losing. it may help to put a shop cloth over the assembly( a few pin punch holes in a cloth won't hurt anything). Also taking the tension off, where you can, helps.
Mike