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B. Stahl "System Stahl" German Schuetzen - Modified Martini Action

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  • B. Stahl "System Stahl" German Schuetzen - Modified Martini Action

    A couple of weeks ago I bought the German Schuetzen rifle shown in the photos below.

    What I have found out about this rifle is that the maker was:

    B. Stahl; Suhl in Thuringen. Listed in German trade directories of the 1890s
    as a maker of ‘weapons and cartridge cases’ (Waffen- u. Patronenhulsenfabrik),
    this business was run by Babette Stahl, the daughter (or, perhaps, widow) of
    Richard Stahl, until sold in 1901 to G.C. ?Dornheim of Suhl.

    And the modified Martini style action was designed by her late father (husband??):

    Richard Stahl; Suhl in Thuringen, Germany. Two types of rifle designed by
    this gunmaker may be encountered. The rarer, dating from 1869, embodied
    a self cocking pivoting block action operated by a bulky two part lever in the
    enlarged trigger guard ahead of the trigger. The 1873 pattern was operated by a
    breech block extension lever running down the right side of the stock wrist. By
    1880, Richard Stahl had turned to true Martini action rifles at the expense of
    his own designs. He was succeeded by Babette Stahl (above).

    The gun is going to need a LOT of TLC and cleaning and rust removal. Sadly this fine rifle (which was brought back from Germany at the end of WW2)
    was hung above the WW2 vet's basement fireplace until he passed several years ago and the rifle ended up in his sons possession.

    Speaking of rust - Suggestions on the best way to tackle this would be greatly appreciated.

    I'll post some photos later of the progress I have made so far.

    Right Side View:


    Left Side View:


    Top View:


    Left Receiver Closeup:
    Last edited by 762x51; 05-04-2015, 03:48 AM.

  • #2
    More Photos:

    Right Receiver Closeup:


    Breech:


    Muzzle:


    Barrel markings under the forearm with my guess of some of the marking's meanings - Please correct me if I'm wrong and hopefully fill in the ???.



    Thanks for looking and I look forward to your comments and suggestions.

    Regards,
    Orin

    Comment


    • #3
      Here are some photos of the action showing the differences in how Stahl used the basic Peabody-Martini design but with a modified striker and locking lever.
      Note how much more complex the striker is and the small lock up of the bolt/lever.







      Comment


      • #4
        Crown over B denotes proof in final state, while the 172,28 denotes the number of lead balls of that diameter to the English pound. It is a pre-1912 plug gauge diameter stamp. This one would pass the whole length but the next size up would not. The S in a Chevron denotes effort by the Schilling forge in converting bar steel toward a tube.

        Cheers,

        Raimey
        rse

        Comment


        • #5
          That rust is not too bad. I would recommend soaking it first in a penetrating oil such as Kroil if you feel the action is tight or sticky at all. Brownells sells an excellent rust remover if you intend to refinish the gun. It will strip the gun down to bare metal, if there is pitting that will need dealt with.

          For the exterior if you do not wish to refinish, you may try some ATF and white scotch brite to gently remove the rust. Again, this will expose any pitting, but should not remove the original rust blue.

          I presume you will not be re lining the bore, from your picture it may not be serviceable as is.
          www.myersarms.com

          Looking for Mauser tools and catalogs.

          Comment


          • #6
            I wrote up a reply to this, but it seems not to have been picked up. I would go over it first with something like 00 steel wool dry. This removes the loose rust without so much mess. Then I would use 0000 steel wool with WD 40 sprayed on the wool. You can make a scraper for removing the tight patches of rust by flatening the neck of an old cartridge case. This will leave brass smears, but the WD40/steel wool will remove them cleanly. Clean it up as best you can before deciding to refinish it, the same with relining it. I would put up with a few pits before lining the barrel. Myers methods will work also. You "pays your money and makes your choice".
            Mike

            Comment

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