Gentlemen: I too have inherited an old Drilling shotgun

[mike ford]

Nathaniel,
There are different advantages for putting the trap on either side. I have seen a couple on the top, but not too many. The type on this drilling, takes a little bit thicker stock for proper fitting, and by putting it on top results in a little slimmer stock. Also, if shooting from a rest in a Kansel(sp) or Hochsitz, you don't have to turn the gun over to get a second cartridge. On the other hand, the type that opens from the end (,and the body is let into the stock), can more easily be fit to an extisting stock, and your face doesn't touch the metal . After years of using a cartridge trap( second type), I turned into a "non- believer" , a pouch in a side jacket pocket, is more convenient and doesn't rattle.
Raimey,
You can narrow the hs to a pool, if you make the pool large enough, you just can't ascribe it to a particular workman.
Mike

[TGM]

Nathaniel,
There are different advantages for putting the trap on either side. I have seen a couple on the top, but not too many. The type on this drilling, takes a little bit thicker stock for proper fitting, and by putting it on top results in a little slimmer stock. Also, if shooting from a rest in a Kansel(sp) or Hochsitz, you don't have to turn the gun over to get a second cartridge. On the other hand, the type that opens from the end (,and the body is let into the stock), can more easily be fit to an extisting stock, and your face doesn't touch the metal . After years of using a cartridge trap( second type), I turned into a "non- believer" , a pouch in a side jacket pocket, is more convenient and doesn't rattle.
Raimey,
You can narrow the hs to a pool, if you make the pool large enough, you just can't ascribe it to a particular workman.
Mike

I am humbled by the wealth of knowledge on these boards. Thank you. I have attached some pictures of the H S marking for review, and I also was curious about the 2712 numbering. It appears in two places one is visible in the second pic. I have seen where that was a reference on production date but only month and year so I wasn't sure on the 27 part? Any ideas?IMG_0064.jpgIMG_0065.jpg

[mike ford]

TGM,
Rather than production date, if it were dated, it would be the proof date. Usually, though, we date the guns by this date, even if not precisely correct. It is close enough for our purposes. The proof date would normally be near the bore diameter/case length, rather than where the 2712 is located. This is usually the location of the serial number, and if the second 2712 you found is on the receiver( normally on "water table"), then that is the serial number.
Mike

[TGM]

Mike. Thanks for the update. The second place the 2712 appears is on the inside of the fore stock or fore arm. Nothing around the 8.9 mm 72 Does this have a relevance?

[mike ford]

TGM,
The serial number is also usually found on the forearm "iron", on the inside. Of course the main place for the serial number is the receiver, usually it is easily seen, but on some guns it may be hidden by the wood. I'm not recommending you disassemble it only to find the number.
Mike

[TGM]

Mike: Yes it is easily visible there. I think my next step is to get an estimate on the value. I would like to hunt with it but it will need some minor repair to the forearm- (small crack) and I need to decide if it is worth the investment, and would that impact the value positively or negatively. The quote I got was $600-700 from a reputable gun smith was for cleaning and repair. In your opinion does that seem reasonable?

[mike ford]

TGM,
Those are two questions that will generate a lot of discussion. First of all, it is your gun, and you can do what you want with it. If it were my gun, I would keep it pretty much like it is, hunt with it, or at least shoot it, and cherish it as a family heirloom. I didn't see the crack, you mentioned, in the forearm so don't know if it needs to be addressed. I don't know the gunsmith that gave you the $600-700 quote, for cleaning and repair, but that seems to be for refinishing or renovation. Here is where the "discussion" comes in, how much work should be done. Some would want it restored to a "like new" condition, and others would support only those repairs to keep it in a safe and workable condition; and those should be done in an unnoticeable way, rather than a refinish. These people would not have the scratches, dings, and other "boo-boos" removed, they are all part of the history of the gun. None of the people on either side of the discussion, own the gun, you do. I have seen several family heirlooms, that the owner had someone "rework", and were so proud they were " like new". They were not, at all, like new, they had "glossy", almost greasy looking, finishes that were never on them when new. Furthermore, writing was washed out, screw holes dished out, corners and edges rounded, and the stocks sanded until they no longer fit. A couple even had double barrels blued in caustic salts. In the end, their great grand daddy wouldn't have recognized the gun they kept their family fed with. I guess you can tell which side I'm on, but it's not my gun either.
As far as the value, I don't usually estimate the value of someone else's gun, I don't have "in hand". When asked what my own guns are worth, I answer " A used gun is worth what ever someone will give you for it". " Since it (which ever gun is under discussion) is not for sale, it is not worth anything".
I may have not answered your questions.
Mike