Well, Here is where I am at... would like to remove the trigger group which I believe goes straight down. I tapped with a punch from the inside very lightly and didnt want to move... Any suggestions?CIMG6923.JPGCIMG6924.JPG
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Dissemble JPSauer Drilling - need help
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It does not go straight down! On most Drillings it works the other way around: After removing all screws you first remove the action body by slightly tapping down on the water table. only then the triggerplate with the lockwork can be pulled out of the stock. Important: all 3 locks should be cocked on assembly and reassembly! The front end of the triggerplate is not only fastened by the big screw you removed, but by a small lip going into an undercut in the action body too. On reassembly take care so the barrel selector lever aligns with the slide in the top tang.Last edited by Axel E; 11-16-2015, 11:52 PM.
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grappa,
Axel's advice is good. I advise that if you insist on removing the rod that works the rear sight ( that works from selector), do not straighten it out, thinking you bent it in removal. It may be worrisome to get it back in; trust yourself, and just keep trying, it will finally go back in. Also, don't forget, the rifle's firing pin may interfere with removing the top lever. A "bigger hammer" may just mess things up.
Mike
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Your instructions worked perfectly. Thank you Axel E.
Upon inspecting the action, I found that the right barrel firing pin is not behaving as spring loaded. I assume that both pins should be under spring tension- so I suspect the spring is broken; so I need to remove the firing pin to inspect it. It seems to be retained by a threaded hollow like screw. Is it simply a matter of turning it counter clockwise? Not that its that easy because the screw is offset and hard to align the screwdriver to it....Here is a picture... Thanks for your help! CIMG6925.jpgLast edited by grapppa; 11-19-2015, 02:28 AM.
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Either the little retracting coil spring is broken or the pin is stuck in the hole from dy firing without a snap cap. Yes, you unscrew the firing pin guides/bushings counterclockwise. To do so, I took a cheap screwdriver, grounf the tip to the proper width. Then, with a Dremel cutoff wheel, I cut out the center, leaving the tip fork-like to go around the firing pin. Otherwise you may not be able to properly retighten the bushing again, without crushing the new spring.Last edited by Axel E; 11-20-2015, 12:43 PM.
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As Axel said you unscrew the bushing like a normal bolt. Modifying a screwdriver definetly helps. The screw will come out at a "wobble" as the face is flush while the hole is not likely perpendicular. Sometimes (I can't remember on the Sauers) the firing pins have a shoulder that after use, and more likely, dry firing will begin to break. On the drilling I had this issue the should had started to peel, likely due to the soft steel used.
I would recommend you check all 3 while you have it apart.
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