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Hi to everyone – my first posting.
I've recently acquired an old (small ring) Mauser-actioned sporting rifle – my first. I didn't set out looking for one, just came across it as a "for sale" internet posting. My initial web search was for anything related to firearms manufactured by J.P. Sauer & Sohn. Primarily because I have two of their Model 38H pistols - my father brought one of these back from WWII. Anyway, saw the rifle and, being from the same company, thought it might make a nice pairing to pass down to one of my sons.
This rifle was described as being a pre-WWII, 8mm sporting rifle made by J.P. Sauer & Sohn, Suhl. From what I can tell by looking at other web search photos, the style of it seems to agree with that era. If it's truly an 8mm Mauser, I can't tell - there's no marking on the visible part of the barrel to indicate such. I've read a caliber stamp and other proof marks should be on the underside of the barrel, but I'll need to separate steel from wood. On this particular rifle, I'm unsure on how to do such. What concerns me is that styled locking pin on the forestock. How does one remove it without causing damage? I would ask the same for the screws – I don’t want to bugger them up.
The rifle came with modern (cheap) scope mounts - the rear poorly fitted. Really wish it had been fitted with the classic "Suhler Einhakmontage" or SEM style mounts (with period correct scope), but would have paid a whole lot more for it. Based on current hole placement (2 forward, 1 rear) and measurements center-to-center, I'm pretty sure it was drilled and tapped for a solid scope base (i.e.,, Redfield #47157). I’m tempted, however, to have them sealed and the action restored to original design and reblued (rust blue) – by an experienced gunsmith, of course.
I'm unsure about the forend cap - it's not the usual Schnabel stock tip I’ve seen on such rifles (e.g., in web photos). I have no insight as to when it might have been added. It does, however, appear to be (near) as old as the stock - probably bone/horn (it's showing its age). Could it be ivory? - it has a slight yellowed tint and ivory was sometimes used for such – I’m told. I’ve also been told such alterations to the forestock were popular with hunters from southern Germany. With the metal work on this rifle, I’m seeing mostly (all) German craftsmanship, but I’m no expert or historian on such things – feel free to share your thoughts.
The bolt cocks on opening and the double triggers seem to work as they should. I set the rear trigger and learned that one shouldn’t breath hard on the front one - nice. I also moved the lever on the floor plate to what I assumed was the (to) open position - perpendicular to the rifle. Nothing seemed to release. On a second attempt, moved lever to a full 90 degrees out and pulled slightly back toward trigger guard. I got release this time - the thing isn't hinged - all falls into your hand. Not very practical in my view, but better than a fixed plate - I guess.
Other than the scope mount holes, I see only one other flaw – a small crack in the stock to the left-rear of the tang(?). I’ve read this is common in such rifles and represents inadequate clearance between metal and wood. Opinions on how to repair are plentiful on the internet – and the described protocols vary greatly. I’m totally inexperience in such, but realize the repair should be made before any further firing of this rifle. I want the crack repaired and the cause of it rectified so that it should never happen again. Again, I would seek out an experienced gunsmith for this repair – any suggestions?
As already mentioned, not being a firearms expert (or historian), I've been searching the internet with a few posting to some gun forum sites. I've learn a few things, but more often, I feel I'm generating more questions than I've answered. For example, the S/N (79000) and other visible markings on the receiver ring indicate a production date of 1912. As to who, where and when this rifle was assembled (and first sold), I still have questions. Such is the nature of research they say – I’m enjoying this endeavor/quest, however. Perhaps I might follow in the footsteps of Michael Petrov? He took an interesting journey over a rifle and I enjoyed reading his writing of it.
http://www.finegunmaking.com/page28/page28.html
All things considered, I’m happy with my purchase – so far. I like the look of this rifle – simple, but elegant - it has some history. I'm hoping some might assist in telling the story of it.
Thanks for your time.
Steve Buchina
Columbiana, AL
DSC01488.JPGDSC01489.jpgDSC01490.jpgDSC01491.jpgDSC01492.jpg
I've recently acquired an old (small ring) Mauser-actioned sporting rifle – my first. I didn't set out looking for one, just came across it as a "for sale" internet posting. My initial web search was for anything related to firearms manufactured by J.P. Sauer & Sohn. Primarily because I have two of their Model 38H pistols - my father brought one of these back from WWII. Anyway, saw the rifle and, being from the same company, thought it might make a nice pairing to pass down to one of my sons.
This rifle was described as being a pre-WWII, 8mm sporting rifle made by J.P. Sauer & Sohn, Suhl. From what I can tell by looking at other web search photos, the style of it seems to agree with that era. If it's truly an 8mm Mauser, I can't tell - there's no marking on the visible part of the barrel to indicate such. I've read a caliber stamp and other proof marks should be on the underside of the barrel, but I'll need to separate steel from wood. On this particular rifle, I'm unsure on how to do such. What concerns me is that styled locking pin on the forestock. How does one remove it without causing damage? I would ask the same for the screws – I don’t want to bugger them up.
The rifle came with modern (cheap) scope mounts - the rear poorly fitted. Really wish it had been fitted with the classic "Suhler Einhakmontage" or SEM style mounts (with period correct scope), but would have paid a whole lot more for it. Based on current hole placement (2 forward, 1 rear) and measurements center-to-center, I'm pretty sure it was drilled and tapped for a solid scope base (i.e.,, Redfield #47157). I’m tempted, however, to have them sealed and the action restored to original design and reblued (rust blue) – by an experienced gunsmith, of course.
I'm unsure about the forend cap - it's not the usual Schnabel stock tip I’ve seen on such rifles (e.g., in web photos). I have no insight as to when it might have been added. It does, however, appear to be (near) as old as the stock - probably bone/horn (it's showing its age). Could it be ivory? - it has a slight yellowed tint and ivory was sometimes used for such – I’m told. I’ve also been told such alterations to the forestock were popular with hunters from southern Germany. With the metal work on this rifle, I’m seeing mostly (all) German craftsmanship, but I’m no expert or historian on such things – feel free to share your thoughts.
The bolt cocks on opening and the double triggers seem to work as they should. I set the rear trigger and learned that one shouldn’t breath hard on the front one - nice. I also moved the lever on the floor plate to what I assumed was the (to) open position - perpendicular to the rifle. Nothing seemed to release. On a second attempt, moved lever to a full 90 degrees out and pulled slightly back toward trigger guard. I got release this time - the thing isn't hinged - all falls into your hand. Not very practical in my view, but better than a fixed plate - I guess.
Other than the scope mount holes, I see only one other flaw – a small crack in the stock to the left-rear of the tang(?). I’ve read this is common in such rifles and represents inadequate clearance between metal and wood. Opinions on how to repair are plentiful on the internet – and the described protocols vary greatly. I’m totally inexperience in such, but realize the repair should be made before any further firing of this rifle. I want the crack repaired and the cause of it rectified so that it should never happen again. Again, I would seek out an experienced gunsmith for this repair – any suggestions?
As already mentioned, not being a firearms expert (or historian), I've been searching the internet with a few posting to some gun forum sites. I've learn a few things, but more often, I feel I'm generating more questions than I've answered. For example, the S/N (79000) and other visible markings on the receiver ring indicate a production date of 1912. As to who, where and when this rifle was assembled (and first sold), I still have questions. Such is the nature of research they say – I’m enjoying this endeavor/quest, however. Perhaps I might follow in the footsteps of Michael Petrov? He took an interesting journey over a rifle and I enjoyed reading his writing of it.
http://www.finegunmaking.com/page28/page28.html
All things considered, I’m happy with my purchase – so far. I like the look of this rifle – simple, but elegant - it has some history. I'm hoping some might assist in telling the story of it.
Thanks for your time.
Steve Buchina
Columbiana, AL
DSC01488.JPGDSC01489.jpgDSC01490.jpgDSC01491.jpgDSC01492.jpg
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