Emile Kerner 16g over 8X57 JR

[Meinherr]

I am currently bidding on a Emile Kerner O/U 16g over 8X57JR with claw mounts The gun has some pitting and the bores are good but the gun will only open partway, There appears to be a repair on the rear receiver action where it meets the stock and there is a crack in the fore end near the iron. Although they were a high quality gunmaker, I am assuming that the cocking cams or internals have been damaged perhaps by shooting a JRS bullet. By removing the fore end the gun still won't open and the auction doesn't want to force and damage the stock. There are no cocking indicators. or bullet trap. I have a mint heavily engraved 1928 O/U 8X57 Kerner double rifle of a higher grade. Any thoughts as to what is causing the gun to fail to open? I would like to restore if possible
Thanks
Doug

[mike ford]

Meinherr,
Are you located where you can see and handle the gun yourself? If so, open it as far as you can and shine a light between the barrels and the breech face and check if a firing pin or firing pin bushing is hung up on the extractor. If the firing pin is interfering, put the forearm back on and open it again and see if you can feel spring tension on the hammer. If not, the firing pin may be stuck forward. If you can feel the spring, the sear may be broken, not allowing it to stay cocked. If it wouldn't open at all, I would think the sliding locking block had broken or slipped off the top lever. In that case it shouldn't open at all. If you remove the stock and trigger plate, you may be able to pull the obstruction back, or at least see what it is. If you still can't correct or see the problem, you might have to take the hinge pin out and slide the barrels forward (remove the forearm first). Caps covering the hinge pin ends have a very narrow screwdriver slot. The pin should be removed from left to right. It may have an interference fit or may have a small pin or screw securing it. If the owner won't let you do what is necessary, you have to decide, yourself, how much you need to deduct to make your risk worthwhile.
Mike

[Meinherr]

Meinherr,
Are you located where you can see and handle the gun yourself? If so, open it as far as you can and shine a light between the barrels and the breech face and check if a firing pin or firing pin bushing is hung up on the extractor. If the firing pin is interfering, put the forearm back on and open it again and see if you can feel spring tension on the hammer. If not, the firing pin may be stuck forward. If you can feel the spring, the sear may be broken, not allowing it to stay cocked. If it wouldn't open at all, I would think the sliding locking block had broken or slipped off the top lever. In that case it shouldn't open at all. If you remove the stock and trigger plate, you may be able to pull the obstruction back, or at least see what it is. If you still can't correct or see the problem, you might have to take the hinge pin out and slide the barrels forward (remove the forearm first). Caps covering the hinge pin ends have a very narrow screwdriver slot. The pin should be removed from left to right. It may have an interference fit or may have a small pin or screw securing it. If the owner won't let you do what is necessary, you have to decide, yourself, how much you need to deduct to make your risk worthwhile.
Mike

Thanks MIke: I didn't handle the gun. The gunsmith at the auction said it opened halfway and then wouldn't open at all. If I can get it cheap enough for a few hundred dollars it might be a good winter project with my gunsmith. I hate to se these fine old guns get scrapped because of a broken part or misuse

Doug

[mike ford]

Doug,
I don't blame you, good luck.
Mike

[Leatherman]

I had a drilling that suddenly wouldn’t open. It turned out to be the slide locking bar had broken where the top levers shaft engaged to move the slide forward and backward. Was able to get to the sliding bar by removing the bottom plate and could then get ahold of the broken slide and pull it back to allow the action to be opened. I have a vertical mill and was able to fabricate a new slide using the original as a guide. It’s a very delicate and precise part to make. You say the rifle was only able to be opened part way and then won’t open at all. If the locking bar is moving rearward enough to release the action I don’t see how it would keep the action from opening completely. So that may mean there is something else like meantion by Mike above. I have replaced firing pins and all have had a shoulder that limits how far forward they can go. Possibly a broken cocking lever. At any rate some part will need to be fabricated once it is found. It would have to be a really nice gun or something i could get for little cash for me to take on an unknown problem.

[Meinherr]

I bout for $500 so lets see if we can fix it

[Meinherr]

I picked up the Kerner on Saturday at the auction house but on closer examination, I found that the gun had been severely abused abused and a replacement stock installed that didn't fit properly as well the claw mounts had ben modified to fit a rail mount. So it wasn't worth restoring and I put it back in the auction for someone else looking for a parts gun. The search continues.