Key for windage adjustment?

[Joseph D]

I have a J.P. Sauer & Son drilling with an original Carl Zeiss scope in claw mounts. The rear scope ring has a square shaft on the right side which I think is for windage adjustment.. It looks like a key similar to a clock winder or old metal roller skate key is what is needed. Is there a source for this tool? I don't want to use anything that will damage the adjuster. Thank You for any suggestions.

[yamoon]

There are many keys of various sizes on eBay. I bought a complete set several years ago for my Schuetzen rifle sights. I posted a how to make one on this forum a few year ago.
Mike

[Joseph D]

Thank You, Mike. I will check ebay.

[mike ford]

Joseph D,
You might check with a clock repair shop, I use a (Wall)clock key to adjust rifle scopes like yours.
Mike

[Joseph D]

Thank You, Mike. I was thinking that one of those would work well. I am hoping that, once adjusted for the cartridges that I have, the scope will remain zeroed-in. I am not one to fiddle constantly with things like that but I do like to be dead-on with point of aim/point of impact.

[mike ford]

Joseph,
You are welcome. This type windage adjustment really depends on bending the scope tube which also puts some stress on the dovetail under the front mount. If the rifle keeps it's zero, all is well. If you find the windage moving, you might check the above-mentioned dovetail. There is usually a (stake)mark across the "hook plate" and the base, if the plate slips, the stake mark will likely appear as two non-aligning marks. The simplest fix is to un-hook and remove the scope, then tap the plate over to re-align the two halves of the stake mark (using a non-marring punch such as brass or nylon). Then using a small cold chisel, stake the plate again in a different place and refreshen the old mark. This will likely correct the problem. If you find you need to continually "fiddle" with it, the fix may be a little more complicated, but most "tinkerers" can do it. The hook plate is likely installed from right to left, and removal is from left to right. The dovetail will likely have a very slight taper to assist is installing the plate, but if it is not fit tight enough it might move. This is especially so if the pressure caused by bending the scope works with the taper to loosen the plate rather than against the taper to tighten it. The "fix" is to move the plate up by punching several places on the bottom of the dovetail in the base, with a small center punch (the "dimples" displace metal around the edges, moving the plate upward). A less satisfactory fix is to slightly bend the edges of the dovetail cut slightly downward with a flat punch, thereby forcing the plate downward. This procedure will be visible and may break the dovetail cut. I know you didn't ask for this, I was just reading between the lines.
Mike

[Joseph D]

All good advice and greatly appreciated, Mike. I am saving this thread with a bookmark as the information here is from experience. Thank You very much!

[yamoon]

Joseph,
You are welcome. This type windage adjustment really depends on bending the scope tube which also puts some stress on the dovetail under the front mount. If the rifle keeps it's zero, all is well. If you find the windage moving, you might check the above-mentioned dovetail. There is usually a (stake)mark across the "hook plate" and the base, if the plate slips, the stake mark will likely appear as two non-aligning marks. The simplest fix is to un-hook and remove the scope, then tap the plate over to re-align the two halves of the stake mark (using a non-marring punch such as brass or nylon). Then using a small cold chisel, stake the plate again in a different place and refreshen the old mark. This will likely correct the problem. If you find you need to continually "fiddle" with it, the fix may be a little more complicated, but most "tinkerers" can do it. The hook plate is likely installed from right to left, and removal is from left to right. The dovetail will likely have a very slight taper to assist is installing the plate, but if it is not fit tight enough it might move. This is especially so if the pressure caused by bending the scope works with the taper to loosen the plate rather than against the taper to tighten it. The "fix" is to move the plate up by punching several places on the bottom of the dovetail in the base, with a small center punch (the "dimples" displace metal around the edges, moving the plate upward). A less satisfactory fix is to slightly bend the edges of the dovetail cut slightly downward with a flat punch, thereby forcing the plate downward. This procedure will be visible and may break the dovetail cut. I know you didn't ask for this, I was just reading between the lines.
Mike

Being addicted to old German rifles, I have used the center punch method to repair loose front sights on several occasions. It hasn’t failed me yet.
Mike