Which Least Expensive Bench Lathe ??

[ohiochuck]

Which Least Expensive Bench Lathe ??

I am interested in taking .22 Hornet new cases (WW) and turning the original rim thickness down on a lathe to 1.4 mm (.055") working from the chamber side not on the bottom side.
This would be for use in my 22 Vierling (5.6 X 35 rimmed) drilling.
Need an easy to use lathe, if there is such an animal
Thanks!
Jim

[sharps4590]

For that purpose about any of the little table top lathes should suffice. Basic functions on a lathe aren't very difficult to perform, if you have any mechanical ability at all and I want to remember you do.

[mike ford]

Jim,
I too thin Hornet rims, to make cases for my 5.6x35R BF, as well as The one in 6.5z58R S&S. However it is much easier to thin them from the rear and they are more consistent. If you thin from the front of the rim, you have to "jury rig" a way to hold them all in the same location. Most people make a plug that fits inside the spindle ( must know spindle taper). The plug is then drilled( while turning in the spindle, and tapped to a convenient thread size. The end of a rod would be threaded to fit the tapped hole, adjusted to length and diameter to fit into the neck of the new case and stop it in the location by hitting the web of the case on the inside. By making the rod a close fit to the case neck and adjusting the length so the chuck jaws close on the neck, it holds the case for turning. By running the live center into the primer pocket, pretty true turning at the front of the rim will result. This device is sometimes called a spigot.. Doing it this way will work, but sometimes there are variations in rim thickness caused from the "burrs" resulting from punching flash holes.
In my opinion, It is easier to thin from the rear. I chuck the case directly in the lathe( I use a Jackob's chuck, threaded for the spindle, but any chuck will work), With the rim hard against the chuck jaw, locating them all the same. I use a carriage stop ( can be shop made or jury rigged with a clamp or "Vise Grip"), so the carriage can be moved and brought back to the same spot every time. The compound slide is turned parallel to the lathe bed and used ( rather than the carriage stop) to adjust the final thickness. I use a cross slide stop( also called "threading stop") so IT stops the cutting tool point in the center of the primer pocket, automatically. After thinning the rim, I move the carriage and deepen the primer pocket with a Lyman primer pocket uniformer. This takes a couple "cuts" to clear the flutes, but will stop cutting at the correct depth. I then open the chuck a little, move the case "out" and re-clamp it. Then I radius the sharp corner on the rim, left by thinning it, with a file. If you choose to do this also, you must be aware of the danger of the file working near spinning chuck jaws. You may choose to do this with a chamfering tool ( i lost more than one good pilar file doing similar operations). I experimented with chamfering the primer pockets, under power, but found it was easy to cut too deep, causing gas leakage. After all the other operations, I chamfer all the primer pockets by hand.
The operation goes like this: Chuck the case, move the cross slide to the stop ( centering the tool on the primer pocket), move the carriage to the stop( lock the carriage), make a skim cut from inside out. Zero the dial on the compound dial. advance the cutter about .010", make the cut. move the carriage and remove the case. Try the case in the rifle. Adjust the rim thickness using only the compound slide until the rifle closes easily but w/o slop. This accounts for headspace, which varies between different rifles. In my case, I had to cut about .015", but yours might be different. Once you have the cutter adjusted, repeat the operations, adding deepening the primer pocket and radiusing the edge of the rim. Another advantage is, the incorrect headstamp is removed. The first case I thinned was milled in half to insure the web was thick enough, it was. This was confirmed by problem free shooting.

Th answer your question, Vic's answer is pretty much the story, if you will only use it for similar work. I like old Atlas lathes, if you can find one. They are simple, easy to use, parts are available at a reasonable price. The 6x18 Atlas will do the thinning and many other operations well, but doesn't have power cross feed and is a "change gear" lathe. The 12x36 Atlas will allow barrel work, but this must be done between centers, due to 3/4" spindle bore diameter. It does have power cross feed, and can be found in either "quick change" or "change gear" format. The Atlas is not as precise as more expensive machines, but those of us that don't already have a very precise lathe are likely amateurs anyway. With care, good work can be done with an Atlas, and they run on "house power".
Mike

[ohiochuck]

MIke,
Thank you for your excellent explanation.
Since I have zero experience using a metal lathe, I will try to remove metal from the base of the case using my drill press. If successful, then deepen the primer pocket.
Will advise soon
Thanks!
Jim

[mike ford]

Jim,
I didn't always have a lathe and was forced to do similar work with a drill press( never thinning rims, however). I suggest the following : Turn the case in the chuck, with the rim hard against the jaws( to locate them all the same). If the drill press has a reliable spindle stop, set it to stop at a convenient place. If not, set it to stop at the limit of its travel. Locate the table so a case chucked as described , will come to the limit of the spindle's travel on a file fastened to it( the table). Adjust the table again to cut a little by the case spinning against the file. With the spindle adjusted to turn at the slowest speed, make the final adjustments to the amount of cut by raising the file( with feeler gage leaves placed under it) until the gun will close on the case easily. Once set, all the rims should be thinned the same amount, without "sneaking up on it". It will still pay to check one "every once in a while", to be sure the setup didn't slip. The edge of the rim can be radiused with another file while turning ( with care). Lyman makes a primer pocket uniformer that can be used to deepen the pockets. Since because the uniformer will stop cutting when it reaches the right depth, you can perform that operation under power while holding it in your hand. You will have to make a couple cuts ( to clear the chips) before it reaches the correct depth. Then you can chamfer the primer pockets by hand as a separate operation.
Good luck'
Mike