I'll probably be the only one in the woods with a double rifle in Phelps County, Missouri!!!
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Rifle arrived today and is as represented. However, I want to repair the crack in the butt stock....and I can't get it off. I ASSUMED just remove the trigger guard and remove the screw that passes through both tangs and it would slide off. Noooooooo. Not for Vic. It starts to slide off but after 1/2 inch, it hits something and will come no farther. Help......please.....
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Ah-ha!....I suspected there was more I didn't know than I do!! Thanks Mike, I will do that. I did try to remove the trigger plate but it wouldn't budge....of course if the screw under the lever is attached to it, that makes sense. I also noticed there is an old repair on the internal, right side of the wrist that I thought might be holding up things but it appears to clear. The box the rifle came in was completely open on one end and had 2-3 heavy creases about the wrist area. I suspect the Fed-Ex baboons had something to do with it.. Recently I have not received components that were sent Fed-Ex. Mid-South and I both tracked them to the KC Fed-Ex facility where they ceased to exist. If some less than honest Fed-Ex employee opened this and tried to get at it, it is a credit to the seller they didn't because it took two of us to get it out if the box at my FFL. The seller had the package so well taped I don't see how it just popped open on that end.
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Vic,
Check closely for screws, ahead of the trigger guard, they often have narrow slots and may be "hidden" by engraving. Also, larger screws are likely to have small "lock" screws with the slots in both exactly lined up, "fore and aft". The slots may not be "square", but "vee".
Mike
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The trigger plate does have a lock screw and I did finally purchase a big set of good screwdriver from Brownells so that hasn't been a problem...yet. I don't remember seeing anything hidden by engraving but I'll double check. The front of the trigger guard screws into the plate and I've been contemplating screwing it back in most of the way and see if I can pull it up like that...IF that's how it comes off. Hopefully I'll get it figured out as it's much too nice a rifle not to keep.
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the front end of the trigger plate might contain a hook or claw that grips into the action body.
After removing the screw at the back end of the trigger plate, wriggle there and see if you can lift the trigger plate.
Maybe the locks need to be uncocked?
fuhrmann
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Usually, after removing all the screws holding action body, triggerplate and stock together, wiggle off the action body first. The triggerplate holding the lockwork comes out of the stock last and goes in first. The locks must be cocked.
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Well good grief....with Axel's directions and fuhrmann's drawing...the darn thing about falls apart in your hand!!!! There is an old repair in there. Now...putting this beast back together, what should I use, Acraglass, J-B- Weld or some other epoxy?
And before I forget, thanks to all of you!!
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Vic,
Any of the ones you listed will work, but where I can get a clean joint and can clamp the break up good and tight, I like "Tite Bond". I'm still using Tight Bond II, but when it is used up, I will buy Tite Bond III. Axel comes in late, but he always "saves the farm" after the rest of us have " stumbled around in the dark".
Mike
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