Sauer drilling/ scope

[osekerschan]

I recently acquired a Sauer&Sohn drilling, 16x16-7x57R, with a 4X scope. The drilling was proofed in 1937 and I assume the scope is of the same age. The scope shows no makers marks and only has a vertical adjustment dial. The claw mount (SEM) is soldered to the scope body and has no horizontal adjustment in the rear foot. However the front claw hooks into a bar that is dovetailed, at right angle, into the base plate. Is this supposed to be the windage adjustment by drifting the claw bar? And since the rifle shoots 10" to the left at 100 yards in which direction should the front of the scope be moved?
Respectfully, osekerschan

[Diz]

The front base would have to be moved to the left to correct. I cannot say about how far without knowing the spacing between the bases. That's out quite a bit and there may be other issues that need to be checked. Is the base off center now? The scope could be bent slightly too. More knowledgeable members may come in on this. Good luck, Diz

[Old No7]

Here's the "Sight Correction" info published by Brownell's -- it refers to up/down height for front sights, but the math would work for left/right adjustments as well.

Or just Google "iron sight adjustment calculator" if the math is a challenge, as there are some online calculators where you just enter the info into and it spits out the answer for you.

With a scope...
I think the "sight radius" would be distance between the front and rear lenses, not the length of the scope tube itself (never tried this with a scope...).

Good luck.

Old No7

Correcting Sight Height
If your rifle or pistol is shooting high or low, there is a formula you can use to determine what the correct height for your sight should be.

Terms
Amount of Error: Measure in inches the distance from the bullseye to your shot.
Sight Radius: Distance in inches from the front sight to the rear sight. *
Distance to Target: The distance in inches from your shooting position to the target.

Note: Be sure that your rear sight is at its mid-point before you shoot.

Formula

Amount of Error X Sight Radius	= Sight Correction Needed
Distance to Target

If you are shooting low, you would replace your front sight with a lower sight, and conversely, if you were shooting high, then you would replace your front sight with a higher sight. Add or subtract the number of thousandths needed to the actual height of your sight and you will have the correct height of the replacement sight.

Example
At 100 yards, your shot is 6" low and the distance between your front and rear sight is 19.5".

6 X 19.5	= .0325
3600

Since you are shooting low, you would need to lower your front sight by .032".

[Old No7]

It's me again...

After rethinking my above comment...

Then again, for a scope the Sight Radius may be roughly one-third that (the distance between front and rear lenses); which is the internal distance between the first and second focal planes (where the light rays cross), as shown in this picture:



So for a 12" scope, the distance used in the formula may only be 4".

Hope this is all somewhat helpful and not too confusing; as I said, I've never used that formula with a scope before, only iron sights.

Old No7

[Diz]

The distance between the bases should be what you use to calculate the adjustment as the spacing sets the pivot points. Easiest thing is to move the front base left until it hits where you aim. Diz

[osekerschan]

Thanks for your advice guys! I decided on the trial and error method. Moved the index mark to the left by the width of the mark. Just shot it this morning and the first shot at 50 yards was 1.5" to the right of PoA. The second and third shots were at 100 yards and were 3.5" to the right of PoA. Hard to believe that such a small correction would move the point of aim 14 inches at 100 yards. Now I will try to shoot a deer with it before trying to move the mark a quarter of the mark width to the right,
Waidmanns Heil! osekerscan

[mike ford]

osekerschan,
Once you get it where you want it, it would be a good idea to stake it in place.
Mike

[Diz]

Mike is correct about staking the base in place once you have it shooting. The bases are fairly close together so a small movement at the base equals a large adjustment at the target. Good luck hunting. Diz