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This is part 3 of my series of text and images following my attempts to improve upon the performance (height) of the cocking pins for my Blitz Triggerplate Drilling's (unmarked maker) shotgun barrels, and to also repair the non-working cocking pin of the rifle barrel.
I carefully ground down and then polished the two shotgun pins so they are flush with the receiver (at the rear) when fired or decocked (due to the angle they were installed at, the front of each pin sits a little proud of the metal).
The idea I had for the rifle's cocking pin in Part 2 below; as was pointed out by Mike, probably wasn't going to work out very well...
So last night, looking at the amount of mass in the rifle's hammer, I decided to use a cutoff wheel and cut a small slot towards the back side of the hammer, and then I soldered a small brass piece in place which I could easily shape into an elevated ramp.
And it works ! ! !
I've worked the action and rifle trigger over 20 times and the cocking pin goes down, and then back up, just as I've wanted it to do. Now I'll just have to re-solder it using some Silver Solder and clean it up a little bit.
Below I've posted a picture of what my repair looks like, and also another one showing you the placement of the cocking pins on my Drilling's receiver -- versus the receiver of a very similar Drilling as made by Sauer & Sohn. Notice how the rifle's pin on the Sauer is in line with the shotgun pins -- while mine is positioned too far back...
Oh well... Now we know why the maker's name ISN'T ON THE GUN...
My theory is that someone made an error, and they salvaged the barrels and action et all and marked it only with the wholesaler's and retailers name, probably selling it for less than a "very similar Sauer" Drilling would cost. That's just speculation on my part; but for sure, the rifle's pin was drilled in the wrong place to start with, as the original images in Part 1 showed it was located too far behind the hammer to do any good.
Cheers!
Old No7
My addition to the rifle's hammer:
Unmarked maker versus Sauer pin placement:
I carefully ground down and then polished the two shotgun pins so they are flush with the receiver (at the rear) when fired or decocked (due to the angle they were installed at, the front of each pin sits a little proud of the metal).
The idea I had for the rifle's cocking pin in Part 2 below; as was pointed out by Mike, probably wasn't going to work out very well...
So last night, looking at the amount of mass in the rifle's hammer, I decided to use a cutoff wheel and cut a small slot towards the back side of the hammer, and then I soldered a small brass piece in place which I could easily shape into an elevated ramp.
And it works ! ! !
I've worked the action and rifle trigger over 20 times and the cocking pin goes down, and then back up, just as I've wanted it to do. Now I'll just have to re-solder it using some Silver Solder and clean it up a little bit.
Below I've posted a picture of what my repair looks like, and also another one showing you the placement of the cocking pins on my Drilling's receiver -- versus the receiver of a very similar Drilling as made by Sauer & Sohn. Notice how the rifle's pin on the Sauer is in line with the shotgun pins -- while mine is positioned too far back...
Oh well... Now we know why the maker's name ISN'T ON THE GUN...
My theory is that someone made an error, and they salvaged the barrels and action et all and marked it only with the wholesaler's and retailers name, probably selling it for less than a "very similar Sauer" Drilling would cost. That's just speculation on my part; but for sure, the rifle's pin was drilled in the wrong place to start with, as the original images in Part 1 showed it was located too far behind the hammer to do any good.
Cheers!
Old No7
My addition to the rifle's hammer:
Unmarked maker versus Sauer pin placement: