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Care of Horn trigger guard and buttplate questions

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  • Care of Horn trigger guard and buttplate questions

    I am cleaning an old hammer SxS with a beautiful horn trigger guard and buttplate. Please advise do's and don'ts on cleaning horn and any treatment afterword. It was severely neglected, so much so that no one else would bid. Of further interest, other than the makers name inlaid in silver on the rib "CASP. FR. SCHILLING in SUHL", there are zero markings on the gun. No proofmarks, nothing to indicate gauge or chambering, nothing? Is this unusual or just a product of it's age. I will post pictures once it's cleaned up but that may take a bit. Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    fishhead,
    Did you remove the barrels and look for markings under it, on the "flats" or ahead of them? If so and there were no meaningful markings( workers "touchmarks" are not now identifiable) this means the gun was made and sold before the 1891 law went into effe3ct in May 1893. If you find a crown over V( usually top rear of rib or barrel, but can be any where) while cleaning the gun, that means it was "in the rack) somewhere for sale when the law came into effect. Maybe someone else will give you tips on taking care of horn triggerguards , I would like to know myself.
    Mike

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    • #3
      Mike
      Thanks for your reply. Google found me another gun with the same makers' name, though way nicer than mine and of a different configuration. Mine is a lefaucheux action.
      https://www.lauritz.com/en/auction/c...-gu/i5155752/#
      Mine was so filthy and rusted that I am completely disassembling it. This takes kroil and patience but I'm getting there and have not damaged anything yet.
      No markings anywhere.
      I believe you are correct as to the age as the gun google found for me indicates it was made in the 1870's.
      Hopefully using rubbing alcohol or turpertine won't damage the horn. I was thinking possibly wiping a little boiled linseed oil couldn't hurt but would like advise first.
      The action functions well. Half and full cock work and very strong hammer springs. Lock up is tight with no wobble.
      Now the bad part, the outside of the barrels had considerable rust and some pitting. One of the bores looks to have pitting but haven't determined the extent.
      Attached Files

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      • #4
        fishhead,
        The triggerguard looks pretty good to me. I think I would be a little hesitant to use a solvent like alcohol or maybe turpentine on it. I was hoping someone else would offer advice, as I admitted I don't know a good answer, but I think I would use Ballistol ( or maybe Kroil) before alcohol.
        Mike

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        • #5
          Actually I couldn't stand it any longer and cleaned it before I took the pictures. Just wondering what would be good for the horn? Ballistol or BLO or? Maybe some kind of wax?
          Last edited by fishhead; 07-02-2019, 11:01 PM.

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          • #6
            Any natural wax would be better than alcohol and I think certainly turpentine. Beeswax is about the end-all, be-all. I have known others who used linseed oil with no ill effect.

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            • #7
              Depending on how these guns are/were stored the horn furniture can be in very good to very bad shape. Your trigger guard show signs of drying cracks which I don't think can be completely restored. My taxidermist suggested I treat my African trophy horns with a furniture polish every year to keep them from drying out and cracking. I would also think a Lindseed oil (boiled) would work as well. I have a couple of rifles with horn that is dull and showing its age but even with the oil and polish it does not restore it back to the smooth polished look it had when new.

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              • #8
                Thanks to all. I should have taken a "before" picture to show how filthy this gun was. I am just trying to clean it up and stop any further deterioration. I don't think it could be more than a wall hanger unless lined or a new set of was made.

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                • #9
                  I have used, and still use, Tea Tree Oil. Can be picked up at most of the stores selling vitamins and supplements. Has a nice aroma and keeps the horn in nice condition. Got turned onto this on another board where one of the members had worked at one of the larger museums and that is all they used on anything made of horn. Kept it from drying out and didn't make the horn look like it was "coated" with something as it sinks in. Don

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                  • #10
                    I believe we hit on something good with the tea tree oil. Doesn't it have insect repelling properties as well? It sounds good. I would add for my own use the wax treatment AFTER the oil is fully soaked in and the surface wiped off. An excellent alternative is to use beeswax last. I have used beeswax in lots of places and in a few concoctions. Olive oil, Beeswax and paraffin in equal amounts melted in a double boiler will work for handles, wood spoons, and wood carvings. Add another coat anytime it needs it by warming the wood and applying by hand with lots of rubbing. Another tip, DO NOT place anything so finished into a dish washer! Not even wood spoons. PLEASE. Steam and heavy lye based products ruin wood products. I hope your guns don't go into the dish washer. Sorry if this seems unrelated. I am against BLO in any of these circumstances. Packy

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