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Blitz Triggerplate Drilling -- Cocking Indicators Repair, Part 1

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  • Blitz Triggerplate Drilling -- Cocking Indicators Repair, Part 1

    A couple of things to start with...

    * This post wouldn't be possible without the support I got from Axel E and Mike F as they provided me with the instructions (and confidence) to attempt the review and repair of the Cocking Indicator Pins on my Blitz triggerplate ("Blitzschloss") Drilling.

    * Update -- This project is now completed. (No Part 2 Needed)


    Following Axel's instructions from his reply to my recent posting on "Drilling Stock Removal", the action was easily disassembled and the triggerplate removed. Here you see the 3 cocking indicator pins secured to the top of the action using hollow screws with a small shoulder, that look to me like drilled-out percussion nipples (without the cones on top):



    Here are the 2 shotgun pins, one was polished by me and the other is just as it came from the 75+ year old action. Don't mix them up, as they are different lengths, but I noted that both the pins and screws were marked with either 1 or 2 small lines to keep them as a set:



    In this image, you can see that solder has been added to the left shotgun and center rifle cocking pins. These aren't "stressed parts" per se, but they will be in the Drilling when it's fired. However, I was impressed that I could take a file to the rifle's lengthened pin and shape it -- and not remove the solder. So it's on there pretty well. I can't say for sure how it will hold up or for how long the solder repairs will last, but if it fails, I'll have someone weld metal on top and shape that; but at least I'll have much better dimensions to work with after this first attempt did work -- well partially, that is....



    I used the word "partially" above as this image shows the positioning of the rifle's cocking pin isn't where it needs to be to fully engage the rounded top of the rifle barrel's hammer; maybe 1/16" more forward would have worked out better, but I can't change that -- nor do I want to do anything to alter the top of the rifle's hammer.


    Well, I can't simply add a larger "button" on the rifle pin as it sits in-between the two shotgun hammers; so I'm thinking that I will need to add a reversed "L" shaped leg (bottom part facing forward) to the rifle's cocking pin, made of brass and soldered onto the existing pin, which will extend ~3/32" or so more forward to better engage the rifle hammer as it's cocked. But as all the round pins can turn, then I need to make some type of a guide that won't interfere with any hammers but will prevent the forward-facing "L" from rotating out of position. Something like a "U" shaped bracket that is soldered on top of the existing screw, and the 2 legs would follow the pin down its full length to "trap" the L-shaped leg.

    Hmmm... Sounds complicated, but doable... Any other ideas???

    Thanks for looking.

    Old No7
    Last edited by Old No7; 05-13-2019, 05:31 PM.
    "Freedom and the Second Amendment... One cannot exist without the other." © 2000 DTH

  • #2
    Old No7,
    The screws in your drilling will be found to be "clocked" or "registered" so the slots are aligned "fore and aft" and must be replaced in the same location, from which they were removed. If you check the ends of the screws, you will see that whoever assembled your drilling used the same system of identifying the proper location as he did with the cocking indicators. I am absolutely certain that others will disagree, but I never found cocking indicators worth the effort. Infact when having a gun with indicators in the stock restocked I had them left out of the new stock. As the owner of the drilling, your opinion is the only one that counts, however, and you should do what you think is best.
    Mike

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    • #3
      Thanks Mike, I appreciate your reply and respect your position on these.

      The screws of mine were not clocked (or timed) fore & aft, but I'd made a crude drawing of where they were, and they do align OK. Yes, I understand these aren't "must have" items, but as they were on it when it was made, I wanted to get them working again.

      Well, I couldn't leave well enough alone... (Plus I enjoy the challenge of DIY repairs on older guns.)

      After thinking some more today, I was pretty sure the solder would just not last... So...............

      So I carefully peened the bottom end of the left shotgun barrel's indicator pin, which lengthened it by about 0.040"; and then I also peened the button of the rifle barrel's pin (amazingly, the solder I had added held on through all of that!) and reshaped it with a file so it had more surface area to the front than before, and...

      And it works!!!

      Here the 2 pins are when cocked: L shotgun (rear trigger) at front left, and rifle at center rear:




      And here they are after the trigger is pulled:




      I'm much happier with this than before I'd started, when 2 of the pins had no movement at all. Now I'll focus my energies on final fitting of the 1.5-6X Hensoldt-Wetzlar scope and get it sighted in -- the lead .32 cal bullets I'd ordered should be here later this week.

      Old No7
      "Freedom and the Second Amendment... One cannot exist without the other." © 2000 DTH

      Comment


      • #4
        Great
        Mike

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        • #5
          It has been fun to watch this. Thanks. Packy

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