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A couple of things to start with...
* This post wouldn't be possible without the support I got from Axel E and Mike F as they provided me with the instructions (and confidence) to attempt the review and repair of the Cocking Indicator Pins on my Blitz triggerplate ("Blitzschloss") Drilling.
* Update -- This project is now completed. (No Part 2 Needed)
Following Axel's instructions from his reply to my recent posting on "Drilling Stock Removal", the action was easily disassembled and the triggerplate removed. Here you see the 3 cocking indicator pins secured to the top of the action using hollow screws with a small shoulder, that look to me like drilled-out percussion nipples (without the cones on top):
Here are the 2 shotgun pins, one was polished by me and the other is just as it came from the 75+ year old action. Don't mix them up, as they are different lengths, but I noted that both the pins and screws were marked with either 1 or 2 small lines to keep them as a set:
In this image, you can see that solder has been added to the left shotgun and center rifle cocking pins. These aren't "stressed parts" per se, but they will be in the Drilling when it's fired. However, I was impressed that I could take a file to the rifle's lengthened pin and shape it -- and not remove the solder. So it's on there pretty well. I can't say for sure how it will hold up or for how long the solder repairs will last, but if it fails, I'll have someone weld metal on top and shape that; but at least I'll have much better dimensions to work with after this first attempt did work -- well partially, that is....
I used the word "partially" above as this image shows the positioning of the rifle's cocking pin isn't where it needs to be to fully engage the rounded top of the rifle barrel's hammer; maybe 1/16" more forward would have worked out better, but I can't change that -- nor do I want to do anything to alter the top of the rifle's hammer.
Well, I can't simply add a larger "button" on the rifle pin as it sits in-between the two shotgun hammers; so I'm thinking that I will need to add a reversed "L" shaped leg (bottom part facing forward) to the rifle's cocking pin, made of brass and soldered onto the existing pin, which will extend ~3/32" or so more forward to better engage the rifle hammer as it's cocked. But as all the round pins can turn, then I need to make some type of a guide that won't interfere with any hammers but will prevent the forward-facing "L" from rotating out of position. Something like a "U" shaped bracket that is soldered on top of the existing screw, and the 2 legs would follow the pin down its full length to "trap" the L-shaped leg.
Hmmm... Sounds complicated, but doable... Any other ideas???
Thanks for looking.
Old No7
* This post wouldn't be possible without the support I got from Axel E and Mike F as they provided me with the instructions (and confidence) to attempt the review and repair of the Cocking Indicator Pins on my Blitz triggerplate ("Blitzschloss") Drilling.
* Update -- This project is now completed. (No Part 2 Needed)
Following Axel's instructions from his reply to my recent posting on "Drilling Stock Removal", the action was easily disassembled and the triggerplate removed. Here you see the 3 cocking indicator pins secured to the top of the action using hollow screws with a small shoulder, that look to me like drilled-out percussion nipples (without the cones on top):
Here are the 2 shotgun pins, one was polished by me and the other is just as it came from the 75+ year old action. Don't mix them up, as they are different lengths, but I noted that both the pins and screws were marked with either 1 or 2 small lines to keep them as a set:
In this image, you can see that solder has been added to the left shotgun and center rifle cocking pins. These aren't "stressed parts" per se, but they will be in the Drilling when it's fired. However, I was impressed that I could take a file to the rifle's lengthened pin and shape it -- and not remove the solder. So it's on there pretty well. I can't say for sure how it will hold up or for how long the solder repairs will last, but if it fails, I'll have someone weld metal on top and shape that; but at least I'll have much better dimensions to work with after this first attempt did work -- well partially, that is....
I used the word "partially" above as this image shows the positioning of the rifle's cocking pin isn't where it needs to be to fully engage the rounded top of the rifle barrel's hammer; maybe 1/16" more forward would have worked out better, but I can't change that -- nor do I want to do anything to alter the top of the rifle's hammer.
Well, I can't simply add a larger "button" on the rifle pin as it sits in-between the two shotgun hammers; so I'm thinking that I will need to add a reversed "L" shaped leg (bottom part facing forward) to the rifle's cocking pin, made of brass and soldered onto the existing pin, which will extend ~3/32" or so more forward to better engage the rifle hammer as it's cocked. But as all the round pins can turn, then I need to make some type of a guide that won't interfere with any hammers but will prevent the forward-facing "L" from rotating out of position. Something like a "U" shaped bracket that is soldered on top of the existing screw, and the 2 legs would follow the pin down its full length to "trap" the L-shaped leg.
Hmmm... Sounds complicated, but doable... Any other ideas???
Thanks for looking.
Old No7
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