12mm German Percussion Target Pistol

[sharps4590]

The references I consulted...about shooting muzzleloaders? The old timers I was shooting with who had been using ML's all their lives was all the "consulting" I needed...and about all there was. There wasn't a lot in print back then and the internet as we know it wasn't even a gleam in someone's eye so "consulting references" for all intents and purposes didn't exist...unless they were the walking, talking, grizzled, breathing kind.

I have never added a filler, corn meal or otherwise to any muzzleloading firearm nor to my knowledge has anyone I've ever shot or hunted with. I do understand that with some loads a filler can hold the fire of the BP off the patch, keeping it from being burned through, thus destroying accuracy but, I've never fired loads in anything that exhibited that difficulty and especially so if the patch is of adequate strength, thickness and adequately lubed. That includes everything from pipsqueak 32 cal. squirrel rifles shooting 10-15 grains of powder up to fire breathing, smoke belching, loudenboomer 62 cal., built for bear rifles shooting 150-200 grs. of powder. The latter was a lot of fun...once or twice.

[JDZincavage]

German duelling pistols usually had rifled barrels and set triggers, other than British / American ones. But, usually they did not have ramrods like this one and were of smaller caliber most often. That's why I would rather call it an officer's pistol. The sparing decoration with just a bit of engraving and stock carving also points to "Business", not a luxury.
As C. Gaetcke = C. Gätcke, Büchsenmacher = Büchsenschmied = gunsmith is mentioned 1839 – 1869, living in Friedrichsberg, a suburb of Schleswig, the pistol was likely made for an officer of the Schleswig –Holstein army during the 1848 – 1851 uprising against Danish rule, see
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First_Schleswig_War

Great information. Thanks. Where did you look up C. Gaetke?

[JDZincavage]

The references I consulted...about shooting muzzleloaders? The old timers I was shooting with who had been using ML's all their lives was all the "consulting" I needed...and about all there was. There wasn't a lot in print back then and the internet as we know it wasn't even a gleam in someone's eye so "consulting references" for all intents and purposes didn't exist...unless they were the walking, talking, grizzled, breathing kind.

I have never added a filler, corn meal or otherwise to any muzzleloading firearm nor to my knowledge has anyone I've ever shot or hunted with. I do understand that with some loads a filler can hold the fire of the BP off the patch, keeping it from being burned through, thus destroying accuracy but, I've never fired loads in anything that exhibited that difficulty and especially so if the patch is of adequate strength, thickness and adequately lubed. That includes everything from pipsqueak 32 cal. squirrel rifles shooting 10-15 grains of powder up to fire breathing, smoke belching, loudenboomer 62 cal., built for bear rifles shooting 150-200 grs. of powder. The latter was a lot of fun...once or twice.

The bore on this pistol is .485. I bought some .480 balls. How much powder should I start with? FFFg?

[JDZincavage]

When I get the pistol back, I'll supply some more photos.

[sharps4590]

First off there's more than one right way to do things. I'll describe what I'd do and assure you at the same time my way is not the only right way.

Personally I think your .480 ball is going to be pretty tight and it's definitely going to cut down on available patch thickness. General rule is use a ball .010 under bore size and an approximately .015 to .020 patch, depending on the depth of rifling. I obviously don't know the depth of rifling on your pistol but usually the older the firearm the deeper the rifling. There is instances where a ball .005 smaller and a thinner patch are assuredly viable but I don't believe this is one of them. Usually that's in real target arms in excellent condition with shallow rifling and a person is seeking to eek out the last fraction of accuracy. I don't believe your pistol is going to fall into that category. Get it to shoot safely and with some degree of accuracy and a fella should be happy.

I'd get some .475 round balls and some 100% cotton or linen patches of somewhere between .015 and .020 thickness, lube them THOROUGHLY with something like Bore Butter or one of the other commercially available grease lubes. DO NOT USE A SYNTHETIC MATERIAL FOR A PATCH OR A PETROLEUM BASED LUBE!!

After thoroughly swabbing the bore to remove anything that might be in it, pop a couple caps on the nipple to clear the channel. Wait a couple minutes just in case there's some glowing residue in the breech, giving it time to go out then, drop 30 grs. of 2F or 3F black powder down the bore. 3F generally shoots cleaner and generates more pressure and velocity. 2F a little dirtier with not quite as much pressure or velocity. Neither will be wrong. Slap the barrel a couple times to settle the charge, seat the patch on the muzzle, center the ball, I use a short starter to seat the ball below the muzzle then seat it FIRMLY on the powder. Don't bother bouncing your ramrod up and down on the ball....it does nothing but deforms the ball and marks you for a bona fide rookie. Just seat if FIRMLY on the powder and that's all you need to do. Keep it pointed downrange, cap the nipple and fire at will. Try a few shots, listen to what the pistol is telling you and adjust accordingly. Depending on the condition of the bore you might have to wipe the bore every shot. If it's decent you might be able to go an entire session without wiping the bore. An "entire session" does depend on how many shots that entails. Eventually you will have to wipe the bore as BP fouling is generally accumulative, light loads notwithstanding.

If all you have available to you is substitute black powders....remember they are all measured BY VOLUME, not weight. That is, if you use a powder measure set for 30 grs. of BP leave it there and use the same volume of whatever substitute you use. Personally I wouldn't use any of them unless I absolutely could not get real black powder.

There's how I'd do it for starters. 30 grs. should be a pretty mild load yet have enough "oomph" to be at least a little interesting. I shoot quite a bit more than that in my pistols BUT....they're a 150 years newer. If the bore is decent generally the single shot pistols are fairly accurate and, depending on the shooter, give up absolutely nothing in accuracy to the most modern handgun....it's just that it's about 2 minutes between shots....if you hurry.

[JDZincavage]

First off there's more than one right way to do things. I'll describe what I'd do and assure you at the same time my way is not the only right way.

Personally I think your .480 ball is going to be pretty tight and it's definitely going to cut down on available patch thickness. General rule is use a ball .010 under bore size and an approximately .015 to .020 patch, depending on the depth of rifling. I obviously don't know the depth of rifling on your pistol but usually the older the firearm the deeper the rifling. There is instances where a ball .005 smaller and a thinner patch are assuredly viable but I don't believe this is one of them. Usually that's in real target arms in excellent condition with shallow rifling and a person is seeking to eek out the last fraction of accuracy. I don't believe your pistol is going to fall into that category. Get it to shoot safely and with some degree of accuracy and a fella should be happy.

I'd get some .475 round balls and some 100% cotton or linen patches of somewhere between .015 and .020 thickness, lube them THOROUGHLY with something like Bore Butter or one of the other commercially available grease lubes. DO NOT USE A SYNTHETIC MATERIAL FOR A PATCH OR A PETROLEUM BASED LUBE!!

After thoroughly swabbing the bore to remove anything that might be in it, pop a couple caps on the nipple to clear the channel. Wait a couple minutes just in case there's some glowing residue in the breech, giving it time to go out then, drop 30 grs. of 2F or 3F black powder down the bore. 3F generally shoots cleaner and generates more pressure and velocity. 2F a little dirtier with not quite as much pressure or velocity. Neither will be wrong. Slap the barrel a couple times to settle the charge, seat the patch on the muzzle, center the ball, I use a short starter to seat the ball below the muzzle then seat it FIRMLY on the powder. Don't bother bouncing your ramrod up and down on the ball....it does nothing but deforms the ball and marks you for a bona fide rookie. Just seat if FIRMLY on the powder and that's all you need to do. Keep it pointed downrange, cap the nipple and fire at will. Try a few shots, listen to what the pistol is telling you and adjust accordingly. Depending on the condition of the bore you might have to wipe the bore every shot. If it's decent you might be able to go an entire session without wiping the bore. An "entire session" does depend on how many shots that entails. Eventually you will have to wipe the bore as BP fouling is generally accumulative, light loads notwithstanding.

If all you have available to you is substitute black powders....remember they are all measured BY VOLUME, not weight. That is, if you use a powder measure set for 30 grs. of BP leave it there and use the same volume of whatever substitute you use. Personally I wouldn't use any of them unless I absolutely could not get real black powder.

There's how I'd do it for starters. 30 grs. should be a pretty mild load yet have enough "oomph" to be at least a little interesting. I shoot quite a bit more than that in my pistols BUT....they're a 150 years newer. If the bore is decent generally the single shot pistols are fairly accurate and, depending on the shooter, give up absolutely nothing in accuracy to the most modern handgun....it's just that it's about 2 minutes between shots....if you hurry.

The groves are numerous and very deep.

It looks like I'm going to have to find thin patches. There are no .475 lead round balls on sale that I can find. .480 is the closest.

[sharps4590]

Interesting. Given the grooves are numerous and deep you might be fine with the .480 and a .010-.015 patch. I'd start thin and work up. You'll know pretty quick if it isn't going to work. Just don't forget that as you shoot the pistol it's going to become harder to seat the ball as fouling accumulates. If it's too tight to begin with, back off to a thinner patch.

Evidently you don't cast bullets or balls?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lee-1-Cavit...-/382444260155

[JDZincavage]

Interesting. Given the grooves are numerous and deep you might be fine with the .480 and a .010-.015 patch. I'd start thin and work up. You'll know pretty quick if it isn't going to work. Just don't forget that as you shoot the pistol it's going to become harder to seat the ball as fouling accumulates. If it's too tight to begin with, back off to a thinner patch.

Evidently you don't cast bullets or balls?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lee-1-Cavit...-/382444260155

I have not been casting in a very long time. For how much I'm likely to shoot this antique gun, I'd rather not get involved in it, but thank you for the Ebay link. It might come to that.

The gunsmith still has it.