Installing German Claw Mounts. Is there a right and wrong way?

[mhutchinson]

Looking at pictures on the web, the vast majority of German claw mount examples show the fixed hook up front and the "lockup" base at the rear. These two bases are even referred to as "front" and "rear" on NECG's website:

https://www.newenglandcustomgun.com/...ope_Mounts.asp

However, on the claw mounts I have, it would be much easier to mount the bases the other way. The fixed claw base is much shorter and the screw holes are closer together. The rear bridge of my mauser action is short enough, and the screw holes far enough apart on the "lockup" base, that I don't think there's enough room. The screws would be at the edges of the bridge, and one corner of the base would have to be filed off to clear the bolt handle.

Has anyone seen a German claw mount with the "lockup" base in the front? Any potential issues with this?

[mike ford]

mhutchinson,
The system you are suggesting is known as "contra einhackmontage" (the "contra" referring to reversed). I have a set like this mounted on one of my rifles. Mine was made by Recknagel, but was one of the last they produced( I don't know if they have started a new series of this type). The mounts I'm speaking of were made for a wide range of different rifles and were generally made to fit the contours and screw spacing of common commercial rifles, as well as Mausers. To take the scope off my rifle, I have to remove the bolt, but this is no practical problem. Also, I had to scrape the rings to level the scope( this is more common for ex-military Mauser actions). Have you asked about this type mount before? I seem to remember discussing this type mount, based on photos someone posted of mounts found on the internet.
Mike
OK, I found it, it was in regard to your Waffen Honold Ulm 30-06.
Mike

[mhutchinson]

mhutchinson,
The system you are suggesting is known as "contra einhackmontage" (the "contra" referring to reversed). I have a set like this mounted on one of my rifles. Mine was made by Recknagel, but was one of the last they produced( I don't know if they have started a new series of this type). The mounts I'm speaking of were made for a wide range of different rifles and were generally made to fit the contours and screw spacing of common commercial rifles, as well as Mausers. To take the scope off my rifle, I have to remove the bolt, but this is no practical problem. Also, I had to scrape the rings to level the scope( this is more common for ex-military Mauser actions). Have you asked about this type mount before? I seem to remember discussing this type mount, based on photos someone posted of mounts found on the internet.
Mike
OK, I found it, it was in regard to your Waffen Honold Ulm 30-06.
Mike

Hey Mike,
Ya, we did briefly discuss this in my other thread. I did not specifically ask about this issue, though, so I figured I'd better ask and be sure before the machinists get to work. When I bought the mounting system it was advertised as a "Suhler Contra" mount but I didn't know what "contra" meant. So this all makes a lot more sense now!

My rifle, being based on a military action, will probably need some scraping or shimming to get the rings perfectly in line. It also still has the clip bridge so that may have to be taken off. As much as I like to do my own work I figured I'd better give way to the professionals given the complexity of this ordeal.

[mike ford]

I removed the "clip bridge" on mine, it's easier and looks nicer. Was there any indication that your bases were made for a Mauser 98?( if it was made for something else, it still may be possible to adapt it)
Mike

[mhutchinson]

I removed the "clip bridge" on mine, it's easier and looks nicer. Was there any indication that your bases were made for a Mauser 98?( if it was made for something else, it still may be possible to adapt it)
Mike

I figured I would have to have the clip bridge milled off of my rifle but the machinist told me he'd rather not if he can avoid it. Apparently it would be difficult to match the contour of the receiver bridge behind it. He was thinking it might be easier to machine the scope base to butt up against the clip bridge. Seemed like that idea would be more difficult to me but I'm not a machinist. I was thinking about just doing it myself with files and then draw-filing to blend it in but I am concerned about keeping it all level and straight so I figured I'd defer to a professional.

There's no writing or marking on my scope bases so I really don't know too much about them but the contour fits onto a Mauser action well so my guess is that they were made for one. The height of the bases looks pretty close to correct but the front ring on my action has been milled down a little so I assumed some fitting would be necessary on the scope bases.

[mike ford]

At first, I filed them off, but later made a "jig" to mill them off. Basically the jig just holds the action on a 30 degree angle parallel to the mill table, I then mill the "clip bridge" on that side to match the rear receiver bridge, then I turn it around on the jig and do the other side. Finally I mount it level on the top a mill the top down to the radius on top. This leaves two small "tits" to be filed off. There is often a small "dip" behind the "clip bridge", from the original machining that has to be blended in by filing. When I filed them off, I took the majority of it with the grinder, then went to files. The important things to remember are: The whole thing is not a radius, only the top is; the sides a flats. Because of this, I filed parallel to the action, holding the file on the same angle as the bridge( be careful of the bolt stop lugs on the left side). The actions usually file pretty easily, but the file will usually "pin" pretty badly. It is necessary, therefore, to keep the files clean. Loading the file with chalk helps, but it is necessary to keep a "file card"(brush) handy to prevent scratches from the pinning. For the final filing, it may be necessary to clean the file after each stroke.
Mike