Franz Kettner action not for extensive shooting?

[CoyoteJoe]

I posted the question about refinishing the stock of my Franz Kettner stalking rifle on another forum and got similar replies as here. However, when I posted that I had decided not to decide but just to enjoy shooting it and planned to do a lot of handloading for it this summer I got this reply.
"Beware trying to take that gun apart unless you know trigger plate actions!
Coyote Joe-- That gun is not heat-treated for a lot of shooting and can become loose on the face in less that 200 rounds. The test is to take the fore-end off, hold the gun by the butt with the barrel hanging down. Gently wiggle it side to side and fore and aft. You can feel any looseness starting. Once started it accelerates fast. They gave that one every chance of outlasting you, though. That's a Kerstner top lock with double under bites, same as the 300 series Merkels."

Has anyone here seen any indication that a rifle such as this will quickly loosen from firing?












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[mike ford]

CoyoteJoe,
I looked here and on Double Gun, and couldn't find the comments you cited, so I have no idea who made them. A rifle such as yours would have been available chambered for such cartridges as 7x65R also. This being the case, and considering that the smaller 6.5x52R/25-35 case heads wouldn't transmit as much force to the action, I wouldn't worry at all about using this rifle with factory 25-35 ammo, or reasonable handloads. If you are still worried about it, I will be happy to take the rifle off your hands. BTW, trigger plate actions are easier, for me, than other types; just be sure the screw drivers fit the slots precisely( and some might be quite narrow).
Mike

[Axel E]

As I can see the photos of your first post now, I can comment your finr "Franz Kettner Kipplaufbüchse". It was made by an unknown maker for retail by Franz Kettner in Zella –Mehlis and proofed there 7,28 = July 1928, evidenced by the ledger number 36 and the word Nitro in script.
With the double/Purdey underbolting and double Kersten top fastening it is one of the strongest type of break open rifles made. I have seen these Z-M made rifles chambered for high pressure cartridges up to 9.3x74R and the vom Hofe numbers. There is no fear to shoot this rifle loose, provided you keep the hinge pin and the locking surfaces clean and well lubricated.
The guy on another forum certainly mistook it for one of the cheap underlever Z-M made Tell type rifles. Those were made for low intensity cartridges only, .25-35 about the upper limit,with a simple single bite lockup, some made of inferior steel too. Tose are completely different rifles.
A " bad" new at last: Your rifle is not a Blitz-/trigger plate lock action. As your photos of the left side show, it is a true boxlock, note the screw heads. It features Kerner's top hung sears to boot. The correct procedure to dis-/reassemble boxlocks is shown on youtube, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwMIgo4BXW4 and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioxvszv2058&t=703s . Follow Mike's advice: Use close fitting screwdeivers only!

[CoyoteJoe]

Thank you very much for your replies. I didn't take that individual's remarks too seriously. My basic intuitive understanding of mechanical things was quite enough to convince me that this person didn't know what he was talking about. I really don't see how a break open action could be made more strongly. I've owned a number of old Savage 219 rifles in 30/30 and know them to withstand years of hard use and their lock up is downright primitive and cannot be compared to this rifle.
Thanks also for the video link. I have already had to do a little work on the rifle. As received, the set trigger was a true "hair" and the unset trigger pull was under one pound. I've used double set triggers on muzzleloaders all my life and understand how they work and how they are to be adjusted but this one was truly dangerous even with the adjustment screw completely removed. So I had to remove the buttstock, trigger guard and trigger plate, disassemble the set trigger mechanism and recut the sear notch so it would hold. I also filed the hammer sear notch which I was able to do without further disassembly thanks to the top hung sear design. When reassembled the unset trigger pull measured exactly 3 pounds, just as I desired and the set pull was about 3 ounces. I say "about" because my scale is not very precise for such small measurements.
Yes, it was with shaking hands and great trepidation that I began the disassembly, not knowing exactly how to proceed but trusting in my mechanical common sense and 60+ years of tinkering with firearms of all sorts. I do have two sets of gunsmith screwdrivers and had to regrind one blade to fit. I'm actually glad I had to do that because it gave me an even greater appreciation of the design and workmanship and I'm proud to say I got it al back together without a single scratch or buggered screw head.
Here is a link to "the other site" which are also good people and I do appreciate their advise as well.
https://www.shootersforum.com/gunsmi...ock-not-2.html

[CoyoteJoe]

Oh and by the way Mike Ford, you won't need to put yourself out to take this rifle "off my hands", but thanks for the kind offer I'm sure. LOL

[mike ford]

Oh, it's no trouble at all, it's the least I can do to help you out of a bad deal.
Mike