Original Oberndorf 8,0 N Range Report

[Diz]

I have seen a lot of old pads mushroomed like that from sitting in the gunbox for years on end. The good news about that is it likely didn't get shot a lot. I know that new horn butt plates are available from Galazan (Connecticut Shotgun) or perhaps from some of the advertisers in the Journal. I am not sure if a "Silvers" pad or leather covered would be correct for that rifle, others will have to comment on that. Still a nice rifle and worth the investment.

Thanks, Diz

[blucher]

I think IMHO at this point what is correct recoil pad wise is kind of a subjective subject, as originally it would have had the horn buttplate from the factory. The current recoil pad on it simply doesn't go with it. To me the old original mauser sporters have subdued clean elegant lines and something from the flashy "look at me" California school of stock design just doesn't fit. It's like a pretty girl in a tasteful evening gown wearing bright neon boots.

I did read through more on mauser sporters and apparently for magnum calibers you could order a recoil pad from the factory. I emailed Jon Speed to comment further and he had this to say:

"On Oberndorf rifles a red form of recoil pad was used but the pad followed the nomal radius curve of stock NOT CUT STRAIGHT DOWN as we see on all modern installations etc. Regards, Jon Speed"

[Diz]

blucher, I like your analogy of the California stock design. Best I have heard yet. Diz

[sharps4590]

Blucher, gotta agree with you and Diz, about the fancy California canoe paddles.

[Dan Patch]

I'm not much of a recoil pad sort of person, but it seems to me there are recoil pads and recoil pads, and the ventilated type is at the bottom of the heap. They reek of J.C. Higgins pump shotguns. Dan

[Diz]

Now hold on a second Dan! One of my first shotguns was a J.C.Higgins with a vent pad as it was all my paper route could afford at the time. That thing accounted for many an enjoyable day in the field so I have a "soft spot" so to speak for those old pads. Remember for certain applications they are still "period correct". Ugly but correct!

Thanks, Diz

[Dan Patch]

Diz: That was a little abrupt, wasn't it? I do think the ventilated pad has a place, but don't believe an Oberndorf sporter is one of them. Dan

[mike ford]

Dan,
My favorite drilling( Franz Sodia) has a ventilated white line recoil pad. At the time( early to middle 1950s), makers/gunsmiths were happy to find anything to work with and users were happy to finally have a useable gun.

[Diz]

Dan,

Sorry, my response was meant to be a bit of tongue in cheek and not as you took it. I'll be more careful next time.

Thanks, Diz

[Dan Patch]

Diz: I like to think I write clearly, but the abruptness I had in mine was my own, not your response. Excuse me muchly. Dan

[Diz]

Dan,

I found out long ago that if twelve people read what you write you can get twelve different versions from them. Believe me there are no hard feelings on my end. I have learned so much on this forum and have the greatest respect for all the contributors including yourself.

Thanks, Diz

[nummer]

Might want to try Dutchman Wood Works for a replica Mauser buttplate. http://www.dutchmanwoodworks.com/buttplat.htm

[blucher]

Might want to try Dutchman Wood Works for a replica Mauser buttplate. http://www.dutchmanwoodworks.com/buttplat.htm

That's good information to know, thanks. I'd have to cut more original wood off the stock to get the right curvature with a horn buttplate and I'd have a shorter length of pull than how it came from the factory, so I'll probably focus on replacing the recoil pad. I am glad to learn of that site though in case I end up with one missing the buttplate.

[mike ford]

blucher,
I understand very well the problem of deciding what to do. I, myself, am going through a similar thing with a 1912 commercial Mauser made for the American market, it has a very short lop, but no signs of recent shortening. While it is obvious a recoil pad is required to bring it back to a "factory" length, the question becomes "did it have a factory installed pad, or did it have an importer installed pad( 1912), or was it owner installed later but not recently?". Both red and black pads were available to the factory and importer, as well as the owners( who also had vent pads available). Unless there is evidence of a recent shortening, it is not possible to show proof of where the pad or which pad was installed. Now, however, at least I can use it, for the time being with a scope and slip on pad; and not have to suffer the indignity of being the one that made the modifications. You too can just do what ever you think best, and not have to worry about it.
Mike

[blucher]

Good bye California trends, back to being a proper European lady

So I finally found the time to put on a red recoil pad. I chose an original Red Silver's no 3 as after talking to various people/reading research I believe that to be the best option.

http://www.kynochammunition.co.uk/silvers.html

I also have started to fix the chip out at the wood tang. I had some problems with the epoxy sticking here as after 100 years of operation there was a fair amount of oil inundated within the wood which did a great job as a release agent. I took the wood down a little further to get past the oil and also drilled very shallow holes to get a mechanical lock. Then I epoxied in a piece of European walnut. I sanded down and whiskered between sandings to 400 grit. Then using a mixture of turpentine, Japan dryers and boiled linseed oil I started finishing the wood. I buffed the surface with a dremel and muslin wheel and will continue to keep applying real Swedish linseed oil coats until the color gets right, which may take some time. After I'm happy with the finish I'll checker the piece of wood, but that may be a little while as I'm moving so for now the project will stop for a little bit.

Tristan