How y’all doing? Inherited Mauser and curious about its history.

[Estee]

Hey Everyone,

How are y’all doing? Well....I’m Drew and I’m banging on a keyboard in Tucson Arizona tonight. Not an old guy..yet..but Im here. Was hoping to tap into the massive knowledge base present on these boards, and foster a newfound interest in German firearms. Consequently I’m a new first time Mauser owner with zero knowledge on the rifle or much of its history aside from the basics.

I recently came into possession of a Mauser 98 through inheritance from an uncle who found it in the back of a closet during his “spring”’cleaning. He felt it would be good for me to own a “proper Mauser action rifle”, and asked me to learn what I could about it. Unfortunately, he has no information on the rifle and isn’t quite sure where he picked it up. So without further adieu..

I apologize for the dark low quality pictures, and will try to post some better ones later today or tomorrow.

The rifle has some markings along the left hand side of the barrel and action.

Waffenfabrik Mauser-Obendorf A/N
257 REM
77740
W.A. Sukalle - Gunbroker - Phoenix. AZ.
Crown over U - Crown over R(?)

The numbers 77740 are repeated on multiple areas of the rifle. The number 40 is also present multiple times such as the rear of the bolt and inside the hinged floor-plate used to load the ammunition.

I have done minor research into the name listed on the barrel, a W.A. Sukalle from Phoenix Arizona and understand him to be quite accomplished and respected in his field. He was employed by NASA at one point but that’s about all I’ve had the time to uncover.

I believe the sight to be a Lyman #35(?) Peep Sight but again that’s just a guess. It has a Patent date of: Aug. 16. 05

It has two triggers, at the risk of showing my ignorance I believe they are called “double set” triggers.

The stock has the word “Germany” printed on the right side of the butt.

Overall the wood stock is in very good condition with only minor surface wear. The rifle is rust free and all the parts seem to function without problems including the sight’s windage and elevation.

Information on any and everything about this rifle would be greatly appreciated. I’ll be happy to answer any questions and provide further details should they be of help. Again thank you for your time and for sharing such incredible knowledge.

-Drew

[mike ford]

Estee,
I don't believe W.A. Sukalle built your rifle( typically from a military surplus rifle action), instead I believe he rebarrled a commercial Oberndorf Mauser from an unknown metric caliber to the well known American wildcat after it was standardized by Remington. The serial number indicates it was made between 1914 and 1919, likely closer to 1914, if not in that year. The stock and triggerguard/ floorplate assy. show typical Oberndorf Mauser styling of the era, which is what lead me to the conclusion that your rifle was a commercial rather than Military product. The Lyman 35( or 36?) rear sight leads me to believe the rifle was a commercial import, rather than a war trophy. At the Time of its production, I am confused as to whether von Lengerke & Detmold or Hans Tauscher would have been the importer. This was a confusing time due to the world wide conflicts. Maybe Axel will come into the conversation and clear up the confusion. It seems there may be conflicting interests in your rifle. For some American collectors, the Sukalle connection would be paramount, and for others it would be the Mauser Oberndorf connection.
I hope you find this not too confusing.
Mike

[Axel E]

Jon Speed's lists date the rifle # 77740 to 1913. The rifle still has the "old style (up to 1913)" Mauser commercial stock with round pistol grip and half-oval side panels. The BU only proofmarks are typical for pre-WW1 commercial Mausers. The stock stamp "Germany" shows it to be a regular commercial import to the USA. At that time, 1913, Hans Tauscher, New York, was the official Mauser distributor in the USA. Later, the rifle was rebarreled by Sukalle to .257. The Lyman # 35 peep sight may have been added by Sukalle also.

[Estee]

That’s incredible information. I’m truly grateful and humbled by the collective knowledge given so freely. Thank you both for the time and breakdown.

Some further questions regarding the rifle:

I understand that without much higher resolution images of the internals and barrel it’s simply hypothesizing, but are firearms this age typically operable? Could I fire it and where would I begin the search for the caliber ammunition needed? I haven’t encountered any while searching my local shops.

Two areas of interest were listed as Sukalle and the Obendorf Mauser connection. I’m somewhat confused as to the relevance of either to be honest. Did I Inherent something uncommon? While selling the rifle isn’t something I would entertain being able to tell my uncle would be excellent.

What is the purpose of having two triggers With only one chamber?

What was the intended use of the .257 REM? Is it a general hunting round for medium game such as deer?

What was the original sight that was installed and why change it?

I apologize for the delay in responding. Having to travel for work makes getting down time to pursue personal interests a difficulty. Again thank you for your responses.

[mike ford]

If you want to fire your rifle you should have it examined by your local gunsmith, but I can't see any thing that would stop you. Ammunition should be available from your local dealer that stocks Remington products. They may have to order it for you, that they don't have any "on the shelf" is a sign that they haven't had a "demand" for it. If you shoot enough of it, maybe they will start stocking it. Both "custom" rifles and Mauser Oberndorf rifles have their own group of collectors that would be interested in the rifle. While not exceedingly rare, I would say it is uncommon. The purpose of two triggers( double set triggers) is to allow a very light trigger pull, without having the force of the mainspring bearing on the trigger's sear surface. If you pull the rear trigger, it will "set" the front trigger, with the rear trigger basically becoming a "hammer" under it's own spring tension. When you then pull ( or touch, depending on how it is adjusted) the front trigger, the rear trigger is released, rotating upward and striking a part joined to the rifle's sear; thereby releasing it to fire the rifle. Before using it, it would be helpful if you practiced with it, to become used to it. The set triggers are separate and can be operated with the bolt open, for safety. The .257 Remington Roberts is a very fine medium power cartridge suitable for deer size game and has been used for some larger game and before the .243 Win./244 Remington it was sometimes used for Varmints, as well. The original sight( on the Oberndorf barrel) would have been an adjustable open sight on the barrel, itself. It is easier to shoot accurately with the new( Lyman) sight. I hope this answers your questions.
Mike

[Estee]

Answered my questions better than I knew how to ask them lol. While shameless I must admit I have two more questions I hope to pick your brain for. I understand the general purpose of the proof marks, however I was hoping you knew what the two on this rifle represented. Crown over U and Crown over R I believe although my eyes aren’t the best and the R could be a B. Would you have a recommendation for where I might learn to operate the double set triggers aside from on my own by trial and error? So that I might gain a better understanding of their mechanics?

While it may be of no interest I feel somewhat compelled to at least relay my progress with firing the rifle. I have contacted my local gunsmith and am dropping the rifle off on Wednesday for a quick inspection as well as picking up some boxes of ammunition I had ordered last night. Hopefully if all goes well I will be able to hit the range by this coming Saturday. Again thank you for your time and help, it’s appreciated more than you know.

Respectfully,
Drew

[mike ford]

Drew,
The crown over U is the mark for View Proof, which is basically a detailed inspection, including verification of dimensions, after definitive proof. A crown over R is the mark for a reproof or "Repair" proof. It doesn't address what any substantial repair was. It is more likely that the mark is a crown B, which is for a single definitive proof, using a provisional charge. I'm sure your gunsmith will be happy to give you instructions for using the set triggers. I only offer the following: only set the trigger when you are ready to fire, it's easy to do while you are bringing the rifle to your shoulder. If for some reason you don't shoot, you should open the bolt and trip the set trigger. It is possible to hold the rear trigger, trip it, then ease it forward, but opening the bolt is positively safe. A German gunsmith friend said it is safer to carry the gun with the safety off and the triggers unset than with the safety on, but the triggers set. This is not an indorsement of not using the safety; rather it is a warning against carrying the rifle with the triggers set. Good luck Saturday.
Mike

[Axel E]

It is a crown/B, not R. Crown/B = Beschuss = proof load with a pressure 30% over service load maximum fired. Crown/U = Untersucht = inspected for defects after firing the prof load. These proofmarks regard to the original configuration of the rifle. That is, the rifle with it's former original Mauser barrel. As Sukalle in the USA (without a proof law) replaced the barrel, these German proofmarks are invalidated.Barreled actions only can be proofed by the Eurpean proofhouses, not an action or a barrel alone. As soon as you take a barrel out of an action and screw it into another action, reproof of the "new" assembly is mandatory. A German rebarrel job would indeed have been proofed with a crown/R mark, but rhat would have been stamped in addition to the primary BU marks. As your receiver shows just two proofmarks, one must be crown/B.
To the use of the duble set trigger: For safety reasons, remove the bolt or at least, open it. Pull the rear trigger back with your index finger until you hear a slight click, with the front trigger jumping forward very slightly. Now change your index finger to the front trigger. A veryslght pull will produce another "Clack", the rear trigger jumping forward again. Do this as often as you like, nothing can be damaged this way. There is a tiny adjustment screw between the two triggers. It changes the engagement of front and rear triggers. Turned out a bit, the pull needed on the front trigger to relase the rear one gets harder. Turned in more, it lightens the pull needed on the front trigger, even to the point that the rear trigger will not stay back at all, being completely useless.