Already Glad! & G.L. Rasch "Bring Backs" Pending

[mike ford]

JustFrank,
Not having the rifle "in hand", I can't say for sure, but I suspect the "stalking safety" is the interference. It is not a normal feature of that model rifle, rather it is a custom fit one. There are a couple ways to fit the Greener type safety, if it was fit to block the "kick off" on the sear, it may have to be removed in order to get the barreled action out of the stock. To do this, look at the left side of the stock. You will see the safety button, held in by a small plate, which is held in by two small wood screws. You should back the screws out with a well fitting screwdriver ( you may have to file/grind one to fit). Make a note of which hole each one came from, because they are likely "clocked", so the slots on both line up "fore and aft". Once the screws are out, remove the cover plate. If it hesitates, tap the stock with the handle of a screwdriver or rubber hammer. Try not to pry it out; if it won't come any other way, use a small screwdriver blade inside the cut out for the safety button. It will damage the stock to pry from the outside of the plate. Once the cover plate is off, you should be able to pull the safety out. You may have to work it back and forth so it will clear the "flat" filed on the shaft. Once the button is out, there may be a loose plate under it, depending on the manufacturer of the safety. If there is a loose plate rather than a "housing", just safeguard it. Once the safety is removed, the barreled action should come out.
Mike

[JustFrank]

Thank you Mike. This seems like a bit of a challenge, but I am now desperate to see what's "Under the Hood". I'll post results, and both my neighbor, and Brother In-law are anxious to help, and see.

Thanks again

[JustFrank]

OK, now moving to earlier suggestion from Mike, but first wanted to show I moved the butt plate over, and found nothing. Still, the plate is beautiful...

Alert to all, that was not as easy as it might seem. It's some very hard, unforgiving wood. It would be easy to trash the screw head, or even break it (even with extra hands on board).

Thanks

[JustFrank]

Well, got part of the way this afternoon/evening. Amazing to me how long these screws are for the actual need.

Back at it - probably tomorrow evening. Steady, strong hands/wrists are a must for getting them out.

Stay tuned, and thanks again Mike & Alex.

[Axel E]

Frank, you must not remove the second screw of the Greener type safety. The two screws may look the same, but they are not. One is a wood screw , holding the safety to the stock. This one you have removed already. The other screw is a machine screw. It holds the safety assembly together , front and back plate, but does not fasten it to the stock. After removing the wood screw you can push out the safety stem from the other side. If you remove the machine screw too, the assembly will fall apart on removal and the tiny detent spring may get lost. Besides, I have not yet encountered a German bolt action rifle that necessitates removing the Greener stalking safety to separate the barreled action from the stock. Just remove the foreend wedge and the two action screws and lift out barrel and action. It may be very tight after a century due to wood shrinkage and hardened grease/oil. So some wiggling and/or light tapping may be necessary.

[mike ford]

JustFrank,
You should accept Axel's advice as more authoritative.
Mike

[Axel E]

Frank, have you removed BOTH action screws? Both go in from below. One is in front of the magazine, visible in one of your photos above the words "D.R.Patent". The other one is behind the triggerguard. Both screws must be removed, besides the foreend wedge.

[JustFrank]

Mike & Axel - Thank you both very much, and this is exactly why I appreciate quality forums (regardless of topic). Two heads are almost always better than one...

As it turns out, I tried the machine screw removal yesterday, for only a moment, and thought "this seems like it's getting harder by the moment". So I stopped.

Now enacting all advice, and will post results.

[JustFrank]

Axel,

The wood screw is back in, the safety is as it was, no damage done. Thank you again. As I now look at the arrangement/construct of it closer, and it's installation, it makes sense.

The 2 bolts, inserting from the bottom, have been out since the beginning of this process (allowing for the removal of the action).

But, alas, this wedge will NOT drop, and I therefore can't separate stock & barrel. Just too tight!

Most frustrating

[Axel E]

As the foreend wedge seems to be the culprit, I just checked it on my M1900 (the scoped one in the VISIER article I sent). It is not captive, so you should be able to push it out entirely, left to right. Use a flat object, smaller than the slit in the escutcheons, and light hammer blows. When the wedge is out completely, the barrel should be free to be lifted out of the stock.

[JustFrank]

Thank you Axel.

I'm going to give this a gentle try, but wait for extra hands to attempt this.

I've now been working on separating a barrel from a stock for over 2 days (off & on)...There are times when the effects of paralysis, and a stroke are most aggravating! I'm very grateful for the gracious help I've found in this forum.

Will post the results when I can.

[JustFrank]

OK those following this thread - The suggestions/advice/knowledge of Mike & Axel has helped to bring this thread to another point where we should be able to learn still more?

The last addition by Axel was dead on, and the front wedge came straight out with no issues, thus the barrel/stock separated, and I was able to get about a dozen images that those experienced might be able to provide some more insight/knowledge. Here they are, and many thanks again to those who helped.

I'm looking forward to any/all additions. 1-5

[JustFrank]

The Last 6-10

[Axel E]

As expected, the rifle shows pre-1912 Suhl proofmarks for smokeless powder. The gauge number 118.35 indicates a bore/land (NOT groove or bullet!) diameter of .340" to .349". So the rifle is chambered for the obsolete 9x57 Mauser cartridge, called .354 by the ads of the American importers Funke, Tauscher and Abercrombi & Fitch in their ads.( The 9.3x57 was a Scandinavian cartridge only, not offered by Haenel) The 9x57 was to be expected as Haenel installed recoil crossbolts in their 9 and 10.75 mm rifles only, not in the lighter recoiling 8x57. 12658 is the Haenel total production serial number. In front of the foreend wedge loop is a Haenel trademark, a circled little rooster = "Haehnel" in German, surrounded by the letters CGH. The other letters and numbers are Haenel factory internal inspection or worker's marks, unidentifiable 100 years later.

[mike ford]

JustFrank,
The 118/35 mark is the bore( not groove or bullet) diameter, expressed in gauge measurement. This tells a couple things about the rifle. This mark is found on 9mm and 9.3 mm( mostly rimmed for combination guns) rifles. I think Axel may have mentioned it, 9x57 was one of Haenel's commonly available calibers. The 9.3x57 was hardly used in Germany, at the time, and would be more commonly marked 108.49, than 118.35 in a rimless cartridge. This means we can be very sure the rifle is chambered for 9x57. The crown next to the crown N is the Nitro proof mark. The proof load will be shown elsewhere. The other thing the 118/35 shows is the rifle was made in or after 1900( mod year) and before they changed the proof marks for bore diameter, from gauge to mm measurement in 1911-12. Axel will be more familiar with the other non-proof marks.
Mike
Axel,
It looks like we were answering at the same time. Different words, but looks like the same answer.
Mike