Already Glad! & G.L. Rasch "Bring Backs" Pending

[JustFrank]

Hello Folks,

I'm simply saying hello, am happy, and very thankful I've come across this community, and already want to commend the community on how well everything is set up!

I'm working up my first true post, which hopefully will complete it later tonight! I'm going to call it "The G.L. Rasch "Bring Back" Parade" (or something like that), after my deceased WW2 Vet Father-In Law.

There will be a lot of images (I hope).

I'm truly enjoying what I've seen/learned so far - Thanks again & Peace!

[Axel E]

That's a Haenel, Suhl, model 1900. Merely engraved and retailed by Rasch, Brunswick. Wrote some articles, both in English and German, about these rare rifles. One appeared in "Der Waffenschmied No.33" (English), available from the GGCA Online Store on this site. Another, more learned German one, appeared in VISIER. You may find info on G.L.Rasch, Brunswick, on Larry Schuknecht's website here http://www.germanhuntingguns.com/fea...arrys-article/ . You got a pm.

[mike ford]

JustFrank,
Welcome, we are happy to have you with us and are looking forward to seeing your treasures. We appreciate your father-in-laws service.
Mike

[JustFrank]

So When Was This Rarity Made???

Thanks much gentlemen, and I did see the information you mentioned Axel (You may find info on G.L.Rasch, Brunswick, on Larry Schuknecht's website...)

I will review the other suggestions you provided - VISER, etc...

Here are a few more images, I do have even more, if that makes sense to further identify, date, etc...

I'm mostly interested in trying to identify the date of manufacture at this point?

Thanks again folks, what a wonderful environment.

[mike ford]

JustFrank,
It would help if you show the proof marks, under the barrel. Haenel was a Suhl firm, and the rifle would have likely been proofed at the SUHL Proof House. They didn't generally start showing the proof date until around 1923, as I recall. It is a Model 1900, and we can tell from the form the bore diameter is shown in, whether it was before or after 1911-12, if we can see the proof marks.

Mike

[JustFrank]

Last Part For Now...

OK everyone, here are still 5 more, and then I’ll stop on this rifle. If you have any specific requests/ideas for images, specifics, etc… please just PM me, and I’ll send/respond as best I can.

Axel, I looked around for some VISIER information you thought might shed additional light, but couldn’t find any. If you have any direct links, I’d certainly appreciate that.

I’m going move to the Long Gun that never received the duffle bag cut and hope to have some good images/info for it up later this evening EST. There’s one feature I really like, and will try to highlight. I will also present a question, or two, I hope someone can guide me to places for answers.

Stay tuned…

[JustFrank]

Mike,

Well, I guess I was composing my reply - and then sent, while you were helping us? Anyway, is the last reply I sent sufficient?

Thanks again

[Axel E]

Anyway, is the last reply I sent sufficient?

Sorry, not quite. You will have to take the rifle apart and post a photo of the marks under the barrel. To take apart: Remove bolt. Push out the wedge through foreend. It may be captive and will not fall out. Remove the 2 screws from below, behind triggerguard and in front of magazine. lift barrel and action out of the stock. The gauge number under the barrel will indicate the caliber. The service load info, 2.9 g Gewehrblaettchenpulver/ Stahlmantelgeschoss = 45 gr (smokeless) rifle flake powder / steel jacketed bullet seems to point to 9x57, but it may be an 8x57I as well.
As the designation M1900 tells, these rifles were made from 1900 on. The improved model 1909 replaced it. So your rifle may be dated to this time span, 1900 – 09.
The CROWN – crown/N proofmarks indicate nitro proof with the "4000 atm special proof powder".
German, British and US patents protected Haenel's magzine arrangement. Haenel also obtained three DRGMs = design protection for the two-part firing pin, the tip mounted in the removable bolt head, and the gas shield on the rear of the bolt + the ejector.
The buttplate shows the "Rasch trademark" Karreegravur = squares engraving.

[JustFrank]

Thanks much Axel, I'll get on this later today, and post results...

I'm not sure I'll be able to accomplish the task without some help, as I'm both an auto accident survivor (C6/C7 Tetraplegic), and stroke survivor - that leaves me with 25% useful on my left hand, and 70% useful on my right hand.

Either way, I'll get to the information, and post.

Thanks again, this is great stuff!

[mike ford]

JustFrank,
Thankfully, the stroke obviously didn't hurt your ability to think and express yourself. If you can't get the screws out, yourself, I'm sure you can find someone to help you. With us, time is not a factor.
Mike

[JustFrank]

Thank you Mike. The 2015 stroke actually caused less severe damage than the early MRIs thought would be the case. Anyway, I was already Tetraplegic from my C6/7 neck fracture in 2012 auto accident. Most recently, I was diagnosed an Epileptic, the fun never ends...

Back to the rifle... I can't get the darn wedge out. It's pretty tight - probably been in there for 50+ years?

Anybody following this post have any ideas? It would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks again.

[mike ford]

JustFrank,
I have an idea, others might not like it much, but it's your rifle. The small side of the wedge likely has a groove in it. Put the blade(thin) of a screwdriver in the groove and tap the handle with a small hammer or the handle of a larger screwdriver. FWIW, it's better if it is tight, they are more troublesome if they fall out. That is why the type that Axel described is the best. Put it back in like it came out.

Mike

[JustFrank]

Thanks Mike, makes sense. I'll probably give that a gentle try, but am going to wait until I have a second set of hands involved...

In the meantime, here's some more images from earlier today. Good news, all the numbers continue to match!

Thanks again for the suggestion.

[mike ford]

JustFrank,
Good. Notice the unusual follower/spring arrangement, this was because Mauser had a patent on the (now) usual "W" spring, at the time.

[JustFrank]

JustFrank,
I have an idea, others might not like it much, but it's your rifle. The small side of the wedge likely has a groove in it. Put the blade(thin) of a screwdriver in the groove and tap the handle with a small hammer or the handle of a larger screwdriver. FWIW, it's better if it is tight, they are more troublesome if they fall out. That is why the type that Axel described is the best. Put it back in like it came out.

Mike

Thanks again on this idea Mike. You are correct on the wedge with a grove.

So, I got some extra hands (see wife), I tried the light tapping (in the groove). I also went TOTALLY around the points where the stock meets the barrel with an extra-careful razor blade tip (to remove any resins/dust/gunk buildups. The barrel WILL separate from the stock, about a 1/4 inch, (from the magazine back - see attached pic).

BUT, It's all to no avail for total separation of stock/barrel, or I'm just afraid to crack a 100+ year old stock?

Anyway, any other ideas/suggestions/knowledge on this config appreciated, and most welcome

Thanks